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Date:         Thu, 14 Sep 2000 00:28:36 -0700
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <Dhaynes57@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <Dhaynes57@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Subject:      Re: Poorman's Rebuild
Comments: To: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@HOME.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <39BEA947.F0B9B7C@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Keep in mind that if the main and rod bearings are shot, so to, the case may also be worn. The center bearing journal does wear out just like in the type 1's. It is just not as obvious because the bearing shells are grooved in the back so you do not see the ridge. All the factory rebuilds that I have had apart do to someone's stupidity or neglect have had align bored cases with oversized bearings. What a hassle getting these bearings! They also routinely use oversized valve guides.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 3:08 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Poorman's Rebuild

You are a wise man to rebuild this now before a rod comes through the case, which is what happened to me when my oil pressure got a just little lower than this. Do not even think of running it another summer, and for now stay off the freeways and don't go over 45 mph! I'll send you some pix of what was left of my engine if you're interested. Suffice it to say it was not a "rebuildable core."

This engine operates near its limits pushing our heavy boxes of stuff around, and skimping on rebuilds really isn't cost effective.

A big problem right now is that oversize main bearings are unavailable from the aftermarket, and the VW OEM oversize sets are $250 from the dealer. Something about Federal Mogul not bothering to make slow moving bearings for awhile due to production problems and concentrating on fast moving stock only. So, if the crank needs to be ground, which is highly likely with oil pressure this low, add $250 to the cost of the rebuild. A production rebuilder might have a crank he can use that does not require grinding.

The rods should be resized and rebushed, and you could probably get by with just a cylinder hone and replacing the rings if the bores and pistons look good.

It really doesn't make sense to put heads back on that have 125,000 miles on them. You might have them rebuilt at a minimum, but new is best. Same for the cam and lifters, I wouldn't reuse the cam unless it checked out perfect, which is also unlikely since you replaced the lifters. This generally causes new wear patterns that shorten the life of the cam.

There is so much work involved and the gaskets are expensive most good rebuilders just don't want to mess with questionable parts, and rightly so. Nobody wants you back on their doorstep with a problem six months down the road.

The only true "poor man's rebuild" is to put in a used engine for $500 or so and rebuild yours properly when you have the $$$. Ask the list for any that might be available.

Good luck, and I highly recommend leaving the rebuild to a professional. It is a tricky engine to do right, and much more complex than an in line four. You will get a warrany for the extra cost too, which is a valuable thing. -- Stuart MacMillan Seattle

'84 Vanagon Westfalia w/2.1 '65 MGB (Driven since 1969) '74 MGB GT (Restoring)

Assisting on Restoration: '72 MGB GT (Daughter's) '64 MGB (Son's)

Parts cars: '68 & '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT


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