Date:         Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:46:35 -0700
Reply-To:     Dave Nadeau <dave.nadeau@HOME.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave Nadeau <dave.nadeau@HOME.COM>
Organization: @Home
Subject:      Re: 1.9L Woes....
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Stuart,

Thanks for the feedback.  The engine has "only" 110K miles on it.  My first
step is to drain the MMO and replace the oil (what is the STP product that
you are referring to?).  Thursday I will install the Oil Pressure kit.
(Thanks for the point to the archives for your oil discussion, those PSI
values will be very helpful.)

A new engine will probably be a Boston Bob version.  I'm inclined to go this
route and pay for the installation only once.   (I'll be doing lots of
archives research on rebuilt engines in the next few days!).

Dave Nadeau

P.S. Is the "scrap metal" the block or the body panel on the van that gets
bashed when the rod comes through?  LOL!

Stuart MacMillan wrote:

> Dave,
>
> Abandon all hope of using this engine any longer or spending any more
> money to diagnose it.  You don't say how many miles are on it, but I'll
> bet there are a bunch.  99.99% chance one or more rod bearings are
> shot.  Keep driving and one of the rods will soon come through the case,
> leaving you with a piece of scrap metal.
>
> Check the August archives for "how to throw a rod" for my sad tale
> regarding oil lights, oil pressure, and rods.
>
> Cheapest fix:  install a used engine, but start saving for a proper
> rebuild.
>
> If you insist on driving this into the ground as I did, drain the MMO
> out (it thins the oil, wrong thing to do for this engine) and put the
> 50W back in, and maybe a can or two of STP.  Stick with 40w or 50w in
> your next engine for summer driving in your oven down there!
>
> Dave Nadeau wrote:
> >
>  Yes, groan, it's about the idiot light for oil
> > pressure.
> >
> > During the heat of this summer here in Phoenix, I noticed
> > that my oil light comes on at idle after driving the vehicle
> > for an hour or so.  I rev the engine and it goes out.
> >
> > About a month ago, Karl Wolz suggested that straight 50
> > weight worked well in his during the summer heat.  So, I
> > changed the oil and filter and used Valvoline 50wt.  It did
> > a little better, but still did not go away.
> >
> > I replaced the oil but not the filter this weekend.  (it's
> > been only 600 miles since the last oil change.)  This time I
> > added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil with the new oil to see
> > if it could dislodge any crud--a sort of lite version of the
> > ATF engine flush.
> >
> > Now my oil light comes on at idle only after about 20
> > minutes of stop and go driving.
> >
> > My next step is to take this to a local mechanic and have an
> > oil pressure guage hooked up.  (I haven't installed a VDO
> > yet.)
> >
> > Is there a way to tell if I've got a bad oil pump or if it's
> > a bearing that's "fixing to fail" by using this pressure
> > guage?  Or is it a case of "change the pump and see if that
> > works..."?
> >
> > If I'm going to be buying a new engine, I'd hate to go
> > through the expense of having a new oil pump put on my old
> > one.
> >
> > Thanks for any ideas!
> >
> > Dave Nadeau
> > '84 Westy
> > Phoenix, AZ
>
> --
> Stuart MacMillan
> Seattle
>
> '84 Vanagon Westfalia w/2.1
> '65 MGB (Driven since 1969)
> '74 MGB GT (Restoring)
>
> Assisting on Restoration:
> '72 MGB GT (Daughter's)
> '64 MGB (Son's)
>
> Parts cars:
> '68 & '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT