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Date:         Sun, 22 Oct 2000 13:44:26 -0700
Reply-To:     Don & Christina Preston <betsy@UTAH-INTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Don & Christina Preston <betsy@UTAH-INTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Stuck Cylinders
Comments: To: Coby Smolens <cobys5@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Well, I went ahead and pulled the sleeves with the head. As it turns out, they were STUCK!! Man, took me about 25 minutes to seperate them OFF of the engine.

So, now that I have them off, got any special tricks to getting them back on? I'm thinking a large hose clamp to compress the springs....

One other question...I ordered a head repair kit from Ron at the Depot (right on time guys, thanks!) which came with what looks like some replacement seals for the bottom of the sleeves. My question is actually regarding what looks like seals on the top of the sleeves. I don't see any seals in the kit for these. Do I need to worry about these? Or just reinstall?

For now, I'm cleaning things up and waiting for the JB Weld to do it's thing....

Thanks,

Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Coby Smolens" <cobys5@home.com> To: <betsy@UTAH-INTER.NET> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 11:54 AM Subject: Stuck Cylinders

> Hi - > > We have done this job at least a couple hundred times by now and have ALMOST > always been able to get them out using a sort of special pry-bar made from > whatever steel stock we could find at hand. Somehow or other, the tool I > make almost always winds up wandering away and getting itself lost in > between incidents of the kind you're referring to (mostly the cylinders > separate with minor persuasion), so I usually have to remanufacture the tool > each time we need it. The stock I've been using lately comes from the > hardware store (Home Depot), in the form of the spikes used to hold concrete > forms in place. I grind the end of one of these spikes down so it's flat on > one side, rounded on the other, and just narrow enough to fit between the > center tangs of BOTH cylinders. I insert the tool under the tangs with the > rounded side against the head so that it acts as a smooth prying fulcrum. > When the tool is shaped properly it works almost every time (it's only > failed once). I am a bit leery of using the chisel method someone else > mentioned - I broke a cylinder once that way and had to pull it after all. > If you DO wind up having to pull the cylinders, let me know - there is a > trick which allows you to reinstall them without having to remove the > pistons. > > Coby Smolens > Valley Wagonworks > VW Bus and Vanagon Specialists > "Intimately acquainted with VW Vans since 1959." > 1535 SF Drake Blvd, San Anselmo, CA 94960 > 415-457-5628 > >


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