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Date:         Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:25:54 -0800
Reply-To:     Jeff and Deb <jeffndeb@GCI.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jeff and Deb <jeffndeb@GCI.NET>
Subject:      sure industries battery isolator on Vanagon,
              diagnostic problems (long)
Comments: cc: Joel Walker <jwalker@bama.ua.edu>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

Hello fellow owners of Vanagons,

I have been struggling with diagnostics on the battery isolator made by Sure Power Industries for my 86 Vanagon. I purchased a rebuilt Bosch alternator, complete with the integrated Regulator, after both the red charging and OXS lights for the unit came on, and after checking the output for the alternator at the battery and alternator. Joel Walker gave me a great number of very helpful ideas to diagnose the problems, but does not have direct experience with isolators in Vanagons. So here I am back at the list. The Sure Industries Model 702-4 has been on the van since its original purchase and as far as I can tell, worked great. I recently noticed intermittent and simultaneous flickering of the charging light and OXS lights, and they finally went out. I have tried to reset the OXS reset button, but it does not appear to have been tripped in the first place. Both primary and the accessory batteries are quite new, and hold a charge well.

Here are the things I have checked:

1. On the original alternator I replaced the voltage regulator with a brand provided at NAPA (it fits the hole locations on the alternator, and seems to have the same brush configuration), and made the specific modifications to the regulator noted in the wiring diagram for the Isolator (specifically for the Vanagon). These modifications involve soldering a length of #14 wire to the regulator connector prong, and connecting the end of the wire to the "R" terminal on the isolator. There are 4 terminals on the isolator, battery 1, battery 2, "R" regulator, and "A" (the alternator). Then you cut all the wires going to the alternator plug, and taping the alternator end of the blue wire so that it cannot make contact. You then extend the other cut end of the of the blue wire with a new length of #14 wire and connect to the R terminal. 2 wires are now connected to the R terminal of the isolator. Before installing the modified regulator, one has to bend the prong in the alternator so the modified regulator does not make contact. I also did this. I sent a couple of photos to Joel to show him how it was set up. In any case, the new arrangement didn't work, as both lights remained on. All testing of the charge at the battery or alternator remained the same as the background battery voltage.

2. I then installed the new alternator, with the modified regulator arrangement, and it also did not work, as no voltage change registered over the battery voltage at the alternator or at the battery, and both red lights remained on.

3. I then tried to test the new alternator by entirely bypassing the 2nd battery. This is where my lack of understanding of electrical circuits has me confused. I replaced the original (new unmodified) Bosch regulator back into the alternator, after bending the prong back so the internal contact is restored. I removed the contact for #1 battery on the isolator and put it on the alternator terminal that goes to battery #1.

I then reconnected the battery and, turned on the engine, and looked at the voltage meter. The meter seemed to stay at about 12.5 volts, I had hoped to see it jump up to about 13.5 or more. After turning the car off, the meter again seemed to be giving the same reading of 12.5 volts. Yet both lights, during this test with the running engine remained off.

So here are my questions:

1. Why didn't the voltage indicate that the alternator was coming on?

2. Here is another question: The D+ terminal on the bosh alternator does not have any wire connected to it yet. Am I supposed to reconnect the wire that comes from the dash that was formerly connected to the isolator at terminal "R"?

3. Is there some way that I can test the isolator to see if it is working properly, independently without the alternator? I am told that these isolators are very simple and almost never fail.

4. Joel thinks that it is possible that I have a grounding problem somewhere. Where should I check if all of the above does not solve the problems? Again, he really went out of his way to baby sit me on this. I can't thank him enough.

Jeff Hartman Juneau, AK

86 Vanagon


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