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Date:         Wed, 3 Jan 2001 16:05:12 -0500
Reply-To:     Doug Alcock <dgalcock@HEWITT.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Doug Alcock <dgalcock@HEWITT.COM>
Subject:      Re: Sound Insulation & Air conditioner--LONG
Comments: To: Leaf <chemistre@YAHOO.COM>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

>going to require me to pull the entire interior from >the van including cabinets, fridge, sink, seats and >all carpeting and stuff. Has anyone ever attempted >this? Does anyone have any suggestions for making >this less painful?

Hi Leaf,

Below is a Malcolm Stebbins post on stove and sink removal (from my personal archives of things I might be doing someday) hope it helps.

Cheers, Doug

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

In my post about stripping everything out of my Canadian 91 Westy, I was asked about my procedure for removing the sink/stove top. I particular like to remove this so as to gain better access when removing the fridge. Here goes:

1) Get some masking tape (or baggies or jars) and a pen. Use this to wrap all screws and nut/bolts and LABEL them. Also use it to label all wires - maybe my brain is addled, but several days later - I can't remember what was screwed to what.

2) Remove the camper fuses - on the driver's side door pillar behind the driver's seat. Turn off the outside propane valve (at the tank) and light the stove to burn the fuel in the line.

3) Removal of the sink/stove cover lid - easy. Unscrew the bolts that hold each end. The left hand side has a two stage nut system with washers on either side of the flange holing the top. Remove and label the nuts/bolts.

4) Removal of the metal face plate: there are three small screws that screw up! into the bottom of the face plate from the front of the cabinet (look up at the bottom of the face plate from below); extreme right and left sides and one about middle. unscrew and label. Screwed in from the right hand panel (front of van) of the cabinet (the panel facing forward in the van and behind the driver's seat) is a covered screw about 1 inch back from the front of the cabinet - level with the face plate. Also another one opposite that one screwed in from the right side of the cabinet (side facing the rear/back of van just above the storage cabinet).

Pull off the stove knobs, unscrew the large dough-nut bolts that are behind the stove knobs. (I used a pair of pliers for this). unscrew and label.

Unscrew the two screws holding the water tank level lights (and battery condition lights). remove the face plate and push the plastic part (with the guts) back under the stove.

The front face plate is difficult to remove, Pull away the bottom first - only an inch or so, then slide it down. The bottom lip of the stove top (as it curles over the edge down into the face plate) goes down into a channel in the face plate, so be careful !

Now there are two more screws that hold down the front of the stove knob bracket assembly. unscrew and label.

5) Look behind the stove, (left side of the van) just below the window, there is a swiss-cheese metal covering going the length of the stove top. In about the middle, there is a rivet or screw holding it tight to the stove top, remove the rivet (drill it out). You can replace it with a nut and bolt or another rivet upon re-installation.

6) on the right hand side (and top) of the cabinet just above the sink, there is a rubber moulding along the top. It is held in place by friction (pressure) and can be pulled up/out just enough to get the sink out. (There is also a bracket coming from the right side face (front of van) up the outside of the cabinet (near the side of the van) and up and over the top - this held the cover hinge. It is not necessary to remove this bracket, but you can, and it is a PITA as the bolts are up under and behind the sink trap.) Now as you work the rubber moulding off the side be CAREFUL as there is a small plastic filler piece just as the moulding turns the corner and goes down the front of the cabinet. You can leave the moulding on the left top side.

7) Turn off the outside propane valve - and light the stove. (put out your cancer stick too) get two open ended wrenches and remove the propane lead to the stove - follow the pipes.

8) While your under there, get a bucket and then remove the two water feeds to the faucet. Be careful not to crack the faucet flanges!!. Better to cut the hoses off than to break the faucet flanges!!!! If you cut, plan your cut so that you can splice in a repair later. I broke the exterior water mains flange on the faucet some time ago (I never use it so I don't much care - but you might). Also unscrew and drain plug from the sink trap - or the floor end.

Your just about ready to remove the sink/stove. Raise the right side and work it out around the obstacles, the left side just slips out.

While it is out, you might consider taking out that swiss-cheese metal cover that runs the length and if it is rusted, wire brush it down to bare metal and spray it with rust-inhibitor paint and then I used shoe paint to put on the top coat as I found a perfect grey colour match. Same for the metal face plate and the side access plate to the rear of the fridge, the cover at the bottom of the fridge and the arm holding on the sink/stove covers.

So I think that's it.

Re-install in reverse order - I hate it when people say that :-)

And now you know why you labelled all of the tiny screws and wires!!

Any additions or corrections, I'd be glad to hear.

Good luck. Malcolm S


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