Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 16:36:59 -0800
Reply-To: Jere & Beth Hawn <jbrschawn@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jere & Beth Hawn <jbrschawn@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Help with coolant system
In-Reply-To: <5b.11075493.27a1f5ee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
Quick comment on the fan *not sure it is for your 83* however, the fan is a
two speed fan depending on the temp. I found this out after 8 years of
ownership when I asked why have I never heard the fan. I had it replaced
and now it work like it should. Jeff sounds like you may have a similar
issue with your low speed temp setting.
Jere
90 GL
88 GL
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey R
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 1:35 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Help with coolant system
In a message dated 1/25/2001 11:44:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
danrich@CCMAUI.NET writes:
> I've own my 87 GL since new and it now has 211,000 miles on it, new engine
> now, never replace the radiator and I was wondering if its time to do so
> because of the slow traffic/hi altitude over heating. The expansion tank
> when it over heats empties into the overflow tank and exposes the sensor
and
> the red like begins to blink.
Dan--
I can't exactly address your questions, but I can share my similair
experience. My 1983 watercooled bus was running hot at altitudes and climbs
up from Denver to Vail. I needed to run the heaters to keep it cool but the
guage was still up pretty high--like 3/4 or more. In city traffic at lower
elevations and even sea level as soon as I stopped for a light the coolant
gauge needle would start to rise to about 3/4. Sometime in stop and go
situation I needed to turn on the heat to cool the engine a bit. In highway
driving the needle would sit just above the LED light on the guage.
Finally on one climb from Vail to Denver my bus overheated.
I replaced the radiator and the thermostat. I feared the previous owner may
have put in a "cooler" thermostat to offset the poorly cooling radiator--and
indeed he had. So with the new radiator and the regular spec thermostat this
is what I've got: Cool. For the first time in my life I'm cool.
The needle on the coolant guage sits in the low side of the "safe" operating
area well below the LED. When in traffic the needle rises to about the LED
mid point the fan kicks in and cools the coolant temp right down. It's quite
a difference and real improvement as there's none of the previous monkeying
with the heaters and the anxiety.
I got my Radiator from the VW dealer. Dealer price is about $405 I think.
The
dealer sold me a genuine VW radiator from VW of South Africa--apparently
german units are either completely unavailable or scarce from the dealer.
The
SA radiator is aluminum and of good quality. My original radiator was
copper.
I understand list vendors have the same genuine VW radiator from South
Africa
for about $200 so that's something to think about.
I had also just replaced my hoses which depending on when you replaced them
last may be in order. The list vendors also have much better prices on the
hoses than the dealer--although they are pricey items no matter how you
slice
them--and I don't recommend slicing them.
Oh, and I just remembered with my old radiator the raditor fan started up
way
late in the game--meaning after the guage was pretty high-- as it is mounted
in the bottom half of the radiator and with the radiator being sluggish I
don't think the hot coolant got down there--therefore the fan switch,
engaged
by the higher temp of the coolant, turned on the fan pretty late increasing
the poor cooling condition. Although with a clogged radiator I don't think
all the fans in the world will help cooling much.
Any more info I can help with let me know.
I hope this helps
Good luck
Jeff
83.5 Westy
LA, CA
