Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 11:03:01 -0700
Reply-To: Keith Adams <keith_adams@TRANSCANADA.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Keith Adams <keith_adams@TRANSCANADA.COM>
Organization: TransCanada
Subject: Re: Rapid Idle when Warm / Throttle idle switch
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Jon (& list),
We've been having rather warm weather lately, and after road
tripping to Seattle, where due to warm dense air, my idle
increased to 3000 rpm, I figured it's time to do something.
I replaced the Temp II sensor. Surprisingly, I bought it at
the local VW dealer, and it costs $12.05 CDN after a 20%
discount (VW Club). Pretty good considering the BD or
Vanagain is $9.95 USD! And the dealer had one in stock.
The surprises never end.
I replaced the sensor, and lost the usual cup of coolant or
so. However, that didn't do the trick. Still idling high.
(I'm glad it wasn't an expensive part!). Next thing? What
next? Well, lots of people said check the throttle position
swtich. I turned it, heard no clicking. However, not sure
how loud the click should be. So I popped the air cleaner
off, took the AFM out and the rubber boot and took the
throttle body off. Grimy is an understatement. Took it in
the house, laid it on the table and proudly exclaimed to my
bride to be "Will you look at the gunk on that thing". I
was quickly scuttled into the basement.
I cleaned the throttle body up and got the gunk off the
switch. Still didn't seem to click. Realize I don't have a
multimeter. Go to Radio Shack. Buy multimeter. Come
home. Return to Radio Shack with defective multimeter.
Spend 20 minutes in RS trying to find a multimeter that
works. Find one. Determine switch ain't switching. Stuck
in the open position. Try cleaning some more and working
the switch. No good. Remove switch from backing and play
with it more. No go. Either at idle or WOT, although it
had been switching at WOT prior to cleaning.
So I popped the cover off the switch with an exacto knife.
Cleaned the contacts, and re-bent the bracket for the spring
and the switch works again. Re-glue cover of switch,
re-assemble whole ordeal, works fine. Put it back in the
van, and drive around for a bit to get it warm (since
condition only occurred when warm). Still happens - 2200
rpm idle. So pull back into my parking stall (now dark as
the inside of a cow out). I adjusted the switch with the
eccentric as far as it will go, and it works - sort of. It
now only works if the throttle really snaps back. But my
idle resumes normalness. I suspect there's just enough play
in the system to stop it from fully activating the switch.
So it's OK. When I drive, if I come to a stop and it's
idling, I just have to give the throttle a quick stab to get
it to snap back. My concern is that when I'm coasting it's
not going to do that. I may add another spring to help the
throttle return more firmly.
Anyone on the list with advice on how to get the throttle to
return fully and engage the switch? I've maxed out the
adjustment on the switch (with the eccentric). I don't want
to touch the screw that BEntly says not to touch, but is
that a good way of adjusting that or not? Is a second
spring a good/bad/dumb idea?
Keith Adams
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia
Jon B Kanas wrote:
>
> Good Day,
>
> Last December I posted to the list regarding my 1987 Westfalia
> Syncro idle being very high when warm. The list consensus was to
> replace the coolant temperature sensor. Finally, over the
> weekend, it's been warm enough to work on the Westy, which is too
> tall to fit in my garage (ex chicken coop!). I performed the
> following tasks in approximately 45 minutes yesterday. The
> problem has been resolved, the overall idle of the Vanagon is
> much improved. I do not know for certain which was the specific
> solution, but the combination was easy to perform and
> significantly improved my Vanagon's behavior:
>
> Replaced coolant sensor; cleaned connection with WD-40.
>
> Removed and cleaned idle air solenoid with carb cleaner. There
> was quite a bit of gritty white powder in this, but it WASN'T
> corrosion. The inside was shiny and unpitted after cleaning!
> Cleaned idle air solenoid electrical connection.
>
> Removed air cleaner and air flow sensor to facilitate
> installation of new water-trap snorkel boot (Syncro-unique part).
> Cleaned all electrical sensor connections on boot between air
> cleaner and throttle body, reseated and tightened all clamps on
> reinstallation of air cleaner.
>
> Cleaned idle switch connection on top of cylinder #2 intake
> runner.
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