Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 10:01:27 -0800
Reply-To: Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: home engine repair ongoings: I'm relaxed now, having spoke to bob.
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Hello all,
For those who read yesterday's panic-stricken-written thread about my engine
start-up after my long time of toiling with the do-it-myself engine repair,
I have spoke to BostonBob, and my stress has been relieved... At least most
of it.
I didn't sleep well last night. As described in my letter, after about 10
minute of coolant flush and a short drive, the oil pressure dropped into the
25-35 range--from which my previous comparison with a 20w-50 oil would take
about 15 minutes of hard driving for it to drop. This freaked me out. I
figured the engine components were still loose--allowing the pressure to
drop. Or it was over-heating the oil (which was true, but ok)
Bob has told me first off that there is an incredible amount of heat
producing activities taking place, with the rings seating, etc. which heats
the thinner oil quicker. He said that everything I have said sounds normal.
That's good!
One thing I didn't do was watch for the oil pressure gauges while priming
the oil system... I pulled the plugs and the injector power earlier, before
starting anything and just let the starter crank the engine round and round.
I think I did this long enough, but I will never know now, since I didn't
think to look at the dash info. But I think the 20-30 seconds of crank time
with the starter was adequate. I hope.
Bob and I talked a lot about the lifters and valve adjustment, and related
compression checks up coming.
As for the coolant leak, I'm off to BowWow in LakeCity seattle for a coolant
level sensor and o-ring to cure the big-time leak. I inspected the tank this
morning for a crack and, without use of a magnifier, I didn't see any
cracks, so I'm hoping I won't be revisiting this problem. Bob did say the
front end jacking-up for coolant flush isn't needed, since the engine
revving keeps the air forward. I don't think it add much work to the job by
jacking the front up, but interesting, and probably controversial info. "If
it sounds easier, it might be wrong" has been a vanagon caveat, but I'm
going with Bob's knowledge.
As per the Boston Engine advice, no more driving, but rather high
idling/revs to 1500-2000 for the continuance of initial break-in. That way,
I can concentrate only on the engine; not the tranny woes, and other
creatures, and the engine heat isn't compounded by load work. I'm going to
drain the oil after about 15-20 more warm minutes of running, replace, and
then put 'er out on the road.
Brian Cochran
84 westy
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