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Date:         Mon, 19 Mar 2001 07:41:42 -0800
Reply-To:     Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Home engine repair happenings:  Latest news and last fix-its.
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Hello Everyone out there in vanagon land, For those of you that have been following my adventures into the world of low oil pressure woes, I am hoping to wrap this job up this week. For those of you needing a reminder...in a nutshell.., I had oil pressure light problems, so I bought a gauge to figure out what was going on. Opon installing, I found a shorted out wire (less than a year old too). Problem solved right? So later I take a long trip on the interstate....my oil pressure sinks really low and the light is on at speeds under 5 mph. Big vanagon.com discussions follow, debates ensue. Bob of Boston Engine declares his theory (connecting rods, not mainbearings/crank probs) to be so right, he is willing to give me bearings and new connecting rods for free, with the purchase of new heads (which I was needing due to a small leak and bad compression.) The job starts, I replace a ton of parts, get it done, and realize the problem still exists!!!

BostonBob reported to me last week that he received my old rods and bearings. They were at .004", which is still within specs. This means that the oil pressure wasn't cause completely by the rod bearing wear. SInce this oil pressure light prob was still there, Bob and I talked about the oil Pressure relief valve. Two owners ago had the valve spring replaced (thinking the old was causing HIGH oil pressure (he couldn't get it running right). The problem remained, but I suspect an aftermarket spring. I pulled it on Friday and stretched it out about .25". I've been on two drives since and there has been no light!

I feel the warm engine pressure is still lower than I would like it to be, but that's just because if this doesn't work, I'm going to be replacing the entire engine. Once I'm running down the road, the oil pressure lowers to about 38 psi. If I let my foot off the gas, it drops quickly to about 20psi and won't rise up much from there. I think it hits about twenty-five psi if I rev the engine in neutral to 2000+. If the dash light is known to light at Zero-ish psi shown on the gauge, even though I have been told (unconfirmed with VDO) that the sender lights the dash light somewhere between 7-10 psi, then my gauge is off by at least 5 psi, maybe 10psi. Of course the work that goes into confirming that isn't worth my time. I'm REALLY worn out from this project. I have a new spring and piston on the way, since stretching a spring out doesn't make it anymore durable or stronger. I'm running 10w-40 now, fyi.

I also have to solve spot leaks from the AT, the waterpump area, and the differential.(?)

I f this is the end of the problem, I'm going to do a wrap-up article on this project, a costs article (listing my $$ invested) and a few other odds and ends. That will hopefully be the end of "Home engine repair happenings".

Brian Cochran 84 westy......(I named it "Moby" after I bought it. Even though I rarely call it that, it is big, white, and similiar to ahab's relationship, it has cost me both an arm and a leg in my battle with it.) Carnation--soon to be Seattle--WA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


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