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Date:         Thu, 29 Mar 2001 17:42:23 -0700
Reply-To:     matt greenwell <mgreenwe@CECASUN.UTC.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         matt greenwell <mgreenwe@CECASUN.UTC.EDU>
Organization: University of Tennessee at Chattanooga
Subject:      auto-stop discussion
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854";
              x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

andrew,

you more or less nailed it. my set-up does not include the float you describe, and relies on myself or the filler-up guy to remember/understand the stop-cock routine. frankly, this has not been a problem (it's not rocket science), and my non-float set-up has given me almost two years of trouble free service, and plenty of pancakes too.

good luck whatever you decide to do.

matt greenwell 87 westy

Andrew Fox wrote:

> List, > I have been doing a lot of researching about propane tanks for the westy > lately as a result of the failure of my "stop fill" fill valve. Here is > what i found out, and i'm still not sure what the best thing to is. Please > let myself and everyone else know if any of the following is not accurate. > > Some of our westy's have a "stop fill" brand fill valve identified by a > sticker on the propane tank rock guard which says stop fill on it and by > the unique set-up whereby a copper tube runs on the outside of the tank > from a small hole about 3/4 way up the tank to the fill valve. The "stop > fill" valve is'nt made anymore because it is prone to a failure in which > after filling propane continues to leak out of the fill valve until the > tank is emptied. I have heard reports that there is a kit to repair the > stop fill valve but have been unable to find anyone who sells this kit and > if repaired the valve would still be prone to failure. One fix described > in the archives is to install a "stop cock" or bleeder valve in the small > hole 3/4 of the way up the tank and replace the "stop fill" valve with an > ordinary acme style fill vavle. With this fix the upper bleeder valve

> would be opened while filling and when about 80% full liquid propane would > shoot out of the valve letting you know its full. Modern propane tanks > work like this except they have float connected to the fill valve so that > in addition to liquid propane shooting out the bleeder 80% up the tank the > fill valve automatically closes when the float gets up to the 80% mark. As > far as I know the float cannot be installed on a tank that does'nt already > have one. > > The main question is weather or not to install the bleeder valve in the top > hole, and regular fill valve in place of the stop fill valve or to pay

> $220-$600 for a new tank. With this fix the tank looks exactly like a

> modern tank although if the person filling the tank forgets to open the > bleeder they could overfill the tank resulting in the tank bursting. > > Any information, experiences, advice greatly appreciated, > > Thanks, > Andrew Fox > 86 Westy


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