Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 04:21:15 EDT
Reply-To: Oxroad@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jeffrey R <Oxroad@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Temperature guage LONG
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 4/8/2001 10:16:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mjruskin@HOME.COM writes:
> Therefore, "summer" and "winter" thermostats solve the extreme climate
> problem.
First off I'm not an expert at anything. Never have been.
But I would agree that "summer" and "winter" thermostats solve extreme
climate problems. But the key is "extreme". And for most of us I don't think
the conditions we live in come under the catagory of "extreme." (And as Tom
Likus would say "I said most. I didn't say all."
Here's the deal. A properly function cooling system on the Vanagon should
keep the engine running at normal operating temp. While Florida is warm where
one listee is having cooling problems I don't think it falls into the
"extreme" catagory. And I'll bet you'll find plenty of Vanagons running there
with all stock cooling componants. The unfortunate side of whoever's Vanagon
it was which is running hot is I think there is something wrong. My guess
would be the radiator since the original post said the rig has a new water
pump.
Here's what I found. The copper radiator on my 83.5 Westy was corroded and
needed to be replaced. It was afterall almost 20 years old and copper. It was
full of crud which is what, lime deposits? calcium? ( The new genuine VW
replacement radiators are aluminum by the way. )
The previous owner had replaced the thermostat with the "cooler" thermostat
and the "cooler" fan switch. And yes that helped to a point, but did not
solve the problem. Because as another listee pointed out, once the thermostat
is open it's open. At that point the coolant can only get as cool at the
radiator will let it cool.
Now here's the catch. In my case the radiator fan would come on way late in
the game. the needle would be almost to the top of the gauge and then on a
long western mountain climb it was too late. Hope for the best. Open both
heaters. I can give you four captain but I can't give you five. That sort of
thing. In traffic I could usually save it from overheating by turning on the
heaters and that would bring the needle down.
I have a theory. Since the fan switch is in the lower half of the radiator
(my radiator was a 2 chamber system basically and I assume they are all the
same. The water came in the top, ran through tubes in the top half. Then did
a hairpin turn to run through the tubes in bottom half and headed back to the
engine) Since the radiator was sluggish and clogged it took a while for the
hot coolant to reach the fan switch. Or the fan switch was in a spot where
the hot coolant didn't reach right away to heat the switch enough to complete
the electrical connection to turn on the radiator fan. Whatever the case
eventually the outcome was overheating--even with the "cooler" components.
The end of the tale is I installed a new genuine VW radiator from the VW
dealer manufactered in South Africa (get one from Ken at Vanagain.com for
about 50% of what you'd pay the dealer for the same animal) and the stock (87
degrees I think) thermostat and the stock fan switch and as far as cooling
it's a different bus.
My needle may run different that others--and as I understand it from previous
list discussion there are different sending units in some Vanagons compaired
to others--but my needle enters the "normal" area on the gauge during normal
conditions and stays there. (Normal being moving forward at a steady speed)
In traffic the needle will rise and it will get just above the LED before the
radiator fan comes on the slower of the two speeds. And when the fan comes on
it will run for about a minute usually then go off and the needle has gone
down to about the center of the LED.
Climbing mountains is about the same as traffic. the needle will rise above
the LED the fan will kick on and the engine will cool in a minute or so. On a
long climb I think the fan will need to continue to run to keep the engine
cool. Previously with the old radiator the fan would run and run and the temp
needle would not move, unless it moved up, and the heaters were both on.
(just so I've shared all the facts I also replaced the water pump during the
radiator swap for good measure)
Whether I've ever been right about anything I still say if the cooling system
is working properly it should work properly with the stock thermostat and fan
switch in all but EXTREME conditionsFor my money the "cooler" thermostat and
fan switch are for extreme conditions like for those who live at the bottom
of a mountain on the Equator or anyone in northern Canada. And for those of
you in Canada, the draft is over you can come home so forget about the cooler
thermostat.
I'm kidding. I tease the Canadians because they get all the film work these
days.But I love Canadians. I'm a big fan of the imperial gallon and Jim
Carey. My engine was remanufactured by VW of Canada. Molson Golden..the list
goes on..
That's the coolant story I'm going with. Hope it helps.
Jeff
83.5 Westy
LA,CA
and ain't nothing gonna
>