Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:12:29 -0700
Reply-To: Zoltan <zol@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Zoltan <zol@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject: Rear hatch struts on '84 Westy & other stuff...
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Les,
It is a fun job to do and need only basic tools. It is good to have a long
whatever to hold up the hatch while you are busy. It is heavy.
On the hatch side you will find a little wire like safety pin that is
secured around the neck of the ball head of the strut. Flip it around and
pull it out.
On the other end there is a clip that you have to take out before the rest
could slide out. Keep the washers in order. One is a rubber washer.
Now you it's time to take out the strut. I usually take out the easy side
on the car first. The hatch side sometimes is a little harder due to the
rust and dirt. Some hitting with wood or rubber mallet would help. But you
have to have the little wire kind of thing out first as I explained above.
Once it is out, you can install the new one right away before you would take
out the other side.
Anything else you need to know?
Zoltan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leslie Shiaman" <lamusicamellama@JUNO.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:53 AM
Subject: Need to replace rear hatch struts on '84 Westy & other stuff...
> Greetings All -
>
> I enjoy the list very much. I've owned my '84 Westy (78,000 mi., orig.
> motor) for 2 months and have enjoyed it, lived in it for a 7-week job
> stint in Calistoga, but not without a few problems. Here's one thing I'd
> like to attend to soon: rear hatch struts. Does anyone know how to do
> this job? I have few tools and little mechanical expertise, but willing
> to learn. Thanks.
>
> Les
> Cellist &
> Owner of '84 Westy
>
> For the other stuff:
>
> 1) Coolant drip from right cylinder head --- at the rear cylinder bolt.
> Service people at dealer gave me the news of death telling me to replace
> head. My mechanic said "no f**king way!!" (he's a good mechanic,
> really!). He sealed up the bolt and this reduced the drip, but it still
> appears much slower. Was the dealer correct? By the way I went to
> dealer in Napa to replace the green stuff from PO after perusing vanagon
> site warning about using phosphate coolant. I've got blue now.
>
> 2) Pilot bearing or throw-out bearing seems to be out. Can't disengage
> clutch. Made it home from Fort Bragg to Arcata in 2nd gear (a 150 mile
> trip). Had to force shift a few times and start in gear a few
> times...did I possibly ruin something in the process? I think this
> (bearing job) would be too big for me, any advice?
>
> 3) Since I am not currently driving it (checked out of my storage unit
> and transferred the goods to the westy..sadly, but they do make fine
> storage lockers) I do start the motor every week, but hearing a tapping
> noise now...is this ok? I have heard this is the hydraulic lifters which
> over time with motor running get fluid and noise goes away.
>
> 4) I noticed the parking brake stuck, so I spent a good deal of time
> forcing the van to move ( once in a while I can disengage the
> clutch)...is the brake sticking a common problem?
>
> 5) oh yeah, I naively put QMI (like slick 50) in and drove it for 500 or
> so miles until I read about ptfe(slick-50, qmi,etc) on the vanagon site
> and did another change to get that stuff out of there...sounds like a
> real scam those people run.. Hope I did no real damage with that junk.
> By the way my mechanic recommends using 20w-50 engine oil...I live on the
> foggy redwood coast. Temp here is 40-70 fahrenheit year-round. I know
> the engines run hot, so does this sound right?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Les
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
| 
