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Date:         Tue, 8 May 2001 09:41:58 -0700
Reply-To:     Matthew Pollard <poll7356@uidaho.edu>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matthew Pollard <poll7356@uidaho.edu>
Subject:      Re: 87 Wolfy Running Rich
Comments: To: Eric Nettles <irakusa@irakusa.com>
In-Reply-To:  <EEEJJHGGCCBBJHDPCFPCGELFCBAA.irakusa@irakusa.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

ok, i've been down this road... check the fuel pressure. There is a How-to in bently regarding this. I was a few psi high and said- "ahhh, no big deal it is close to spec" WRONG!!!! A few psi turned out to be about 10% high... i changed the fuel pressure regulator (along with the then fouled oxygen sensor) and my milage is back to 21.5 :-)

> temp 2 is new (But the other one, with 2 spade connectors, is old and > definitely bad, what is it anyway? Could it be the culprit?)

I have an 84 1.9 so it may be a bit different, but... the temp2 has a blue two prong shielded connector. Adjacent to it (on the right) is the temp sender- this runs the gauge in the dashboard.

> The AFM looks good, there are two definite tracks, but no indentations and > not anything revealing excessive wear.

If you are having surges the AFM would be a likely culprit.... certaily won't cause the running rich...

> My Idle Stabilizer is out due to a burned out resistor in the top L corner > (sure, if anyone knows what ohm it is I will get a new one and drop it back > in!) > But I didn't connect any wires when I took it out... Is that a problem? I > was having trouble with it before, but perhaps less? I wish I could > remember.

I don't think the idle stabilizer is your issue- it is really for keeping your engine smooth when you are at a stopsign. You can bypass it by connecting the two wires coming from it together.

> I'm also reading a lot about checking Vacuum lines... How do I do this?

Easiest way- replace them. It should cost you about 2$ to replace all of them! Be sure to get all of the hoses. There are a few different sizes from abou 1/8" to 5/8" or so.

> And my last question, If I were to end up having to buy a timing gun, I have > gathered that I would check the timing by setting a dial and looking at the > grooves I've seen on the flywheel... If I were to find out that the timing > were off, what would I do to change it? > I've heard from separate mechanics here and there that the van does/doesn't > have a timing chain, what's the scoop?

No timing chain. A timing chain/belt would go from the crank to the cam. In these engines (and all VW flat 4's) the cam has a gear that rides directly on the crankshaft.

As for timing, you need to check it not on the flywheel (this is where the clucth is attached- sandwiched between the engine and tranny) but on the main pulley at the back of the engine. There are a few notches in the pulley that you need to set your timing to... to change your timing you just rotate the distributar

Ok time to get back to work cheers Matthew


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