Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:10:53 EDT
Reply-To: JKrevnov@aol.com
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Rico Sapolich <JKrevnov@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro] The Syncro project arrives...(won't start)
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In a message dated 5/23/01 5:51:40 PM, Doug@beaconmarketing.net writes:
<< So... any other advice, clues or wisdom from my fellow Vanagon
sufferers????
>>
Doug,
I had a similar problem right after I took delivery of a used Syncro. The
previous owner had told me a rebuilt starter (bought from Advanced Auto) was
recently installed and there was paperwork to prove it. I went through the
ritual of checking everything associated with the starter without finding
anything wrong. Finally, the intermittent no start became permanent and I
thought for sure I would be able to locate the source of the problem. After
checking everything again, all indications were a faulty starter. So, I
installed another one. Guess what, the new starter did not work. Checked
everything again: low resistance in the ground path, low resistance in the
power cable and proper voltage under load, ignition switch OK, etc. When I
tried to energize the solenoid directly from the battery, it still would not
kick. And then, magically it chose to start from the ignition switch. I had
already cleaned the grounding bonds, so I added another one. Since then, it
has started every time, but sometimes it hesitates before it will crank.
I had a new BMW airhead which also would not crank intermittently. After I
tired of the run-around I was getting from the dealer, I removed the starter
and checked it myself. In that case, I found that burrs from the copper
cladding had formed on the leading edges of the brushes. It appeared that if
the armature of the starter stopped with the burrs residing on commutator
segments, the brushes were lifted enough to prevent an adequate current
through the solenoid and starter motor. It was insidious because, at times,
the armature would stop with the burrs in the commutator grooves and,
consequently, the brushes would be in full contact with the commutator; then,
it would start. A fair chamfer on those brushes made it all well again.
Before you do anything, clean up the starter and the case mounting flanges
and bond the stater to the case.
Rich
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