Date:         Wed, 30 May 2001 07:57:31 -0500
Reply-To:     andrewbell <andrewbell@QWEST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         andrewbell <andrewbell@QWEST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Oil fill plug stripped
Comments: To: Tim Smith <smithtj@NBNET.NB.CA>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854";
              x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

Another think you could try is to use a dremel(sp?) tool with a small
cutting disc to *slot* the plug. It may be possible to then use a large
screwdriver to turn it loose. Maybe a combination of everything to get it
out...

Good luck!

AB

Tim Smith wrote:

> one of those BTDT answers......
>
> I take it the socket is stripped/rounded out?
> Get a propane torch, preferably one of the hotter
> swirl combustion ones, a hammer and a 6" cold chisel,
> dull is good here.
>
> Go back under and clear as much alum'n crud off from
> around the plugs, use a brush/etc.  Then hit it with
> the heat, not red hot! just enough that sharp corners
> and surface show heat flecks. You're burning off some
> corrosion bits. Put the torch aside and hammer and chisel
> at it, working on opposite sides and trying NOT to
> shear off the plug flush with trans. It should jolt
> loose, keep applying heat every couple of minutes.
> When chiselling aim inwards a bit too, to separate
> the plug from the trans/threads.  It's the alum'n crud
> holding it, and that will weaken with the heat. Have
> faith, this works. You will likely have to set the chisel
> in 3 or 4 places before it finally shifts. Throw the plug
> away when done!!!!!!!
>
> When out clean the threads up with a wire 'toothbrush',
> and apply nev'r-seize/similar to them/plug. Do not
> overtighten, the plug threads are taper type, meaning it
> doesn't tighten down like a normal nut, but generates huge
> wedging forces to seal the threads.  You don't get as clear
> a warning that the plug is ample tight because of this, a firm
> extra 1/4-1/2 twist like the oil filter will work fine.
>
> HTH, thanks for 1.9l FI help, so far a dead temp sensor, a corroded
> but intact looking ground strap and ground wires/bolts have been fixed
> and things are way better, Starts fast on the key without having to just
> about floor it while spinning the starter for ages. One small step
> for vanagon-kind....    If anyone has a real digijet manual and could
> scan it and submit to Darrel Boehler for his website that would be great.
> The L-jet + lambda for 2.0l aircooleds is there, and the 2.1l wasser's
> digifant is too, but not the digijet.  Tim