Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:14:21 -0400
Reply-To: jhlauterbach <jhlauterbach@MSN.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: jhlauterbach <jhlauterbach@MSN.COM>
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Subject: Re: Timing Question
Tony, thank you for your continued suggestions. The new fuel pressure
regulator took away most of the problems. I also hooked the O2 sensor back
up as it was giving me 0.5 volt versus ground. This has tended to modulate
the desire for the van to stall after 2 to 3 minutes of running as I guess
the ECU leans out the mixture in response to the decreasing voltage. New
fuel pressure regulator also took down the excessively high idle when van is
fully warmed up.
John Lauterbach
Macon, GA
1884 DL with 1.9L engine
----- Original Message -----
From: "jhlauterbach" <jhlauterbach@msn.com>
To: "Smola, Tony" <TSmola@tribune.com>
Cc: <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Timing Question
> Tony, thank you for your help. I need to recheck timing, but my timing
> light dates from the days when Heathkits were popular so I can't do the
> fancy stuff with the dial.
>
> Main problem on the idle dropping off appears to happen 2 to 3 minutes
after
> I start the van after it has been out all night at 65-70 deg F. Could
this
> be the auxiliary air regulator shutting off the air thinking that the
other
> parts of the FI system will take over?
>
> This afternoon when I left work (van had been out all day in hot sun -
> interior temp around 120 deg F), it wanted to die as soon as I started it
> and exhaust smelled of unburnt gasoline. Then it died about 2 or 3
minutes
> later when I had to wait to get on expressway ramp. From then on it was
> okay.
>
> I have fuel pressure regulator on order and Temp II sensor has already
been
> delivered. I need to check the resistance values for both Temp I and Temp
> II to make sure that I don't have bad sensors.
>
> Another hint of the problem may be the change in engine rpm when temp
gauge
> gets up to the LED. There is a boost of 50 to 100 rpm between time the
need
> just touches the LED and when it is centered over the LED. Is this
normal?
>
> We don't have smog checks here in Middle Georgia. I am running with
exhaust
> sensor disconnected as it was causing engine to run rich.
>
> Regards,
>
> John lauterbach
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Smola, Tony" <TSmola@tribune.com>
> To: "'jhlauterbach'" <jhlauterbach@msn.com>
> Cc: <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 11:58 PM
> Subject: RE: Re: Timing Question
>
>
> > John, double check your timing. Remember with an advance timing light
you
> > set the gun at 6 degrees and then line up the shallow groove on the
pulley
> > on the case halves, not the v-notch, that is 5 degrees after TDC. If
that
> > checks out ok then the next thing to do is to make sure that idle is
> within
> > specs for the timing at idle which is 900 plus or minus 50 rpms....I
oculd
> > be a little off. The last thing regarding triple checking your timing
is
> to
> > check the full advance, which is 42 degrees.....Just set the timing
light
> at
> > 42 degrees and raise the idle to 3500 rpms and rotate the distributor
> until
> > the the tdc mark (shallow groove) lines up on the case halves.
> > As far as your over rich fuel injection: check fuel pump pressure. If
> the
> > pressure is too high you will run rich. The temp sensors can also cause
an
> > overrich condition if they think that the engine is colder than it
> actually
> > is. The fuel injection will enrichen the fuel mixture while cold to
help
> > drivability. But, they should not be so rich that the inside of your
> exhaust
> > tip is blackened with soot. The carbon monoxide adjustment on the air
flow
> > meter can also adjust air/fuel mixture. To help with drivability
after
> > setting your timing, turn the screw out about 1 and a half turns from
the
> > closed position. Your idle will vary from 1000 to 1300rpms but don't
let
> > that bother you, it's overall drivability that you are looking for, if
> your
> > idle is a little high then that is going to have to be a small price to
> > pay.....Mine does the same thing as far as idle fluctuations....But I
can
> > deal with that....Mine is a manual, so it really doesn't affect me. If
> you
> > have an automatic, you might want to see how low you can set the idle
> > without affecting the performance of the van. It is better to have the
> idle
> > a little too high than suffer from stalling being set too low. Also
check
> > the oil filler cap to make sure it doesn't leak, this can affect idle.
> Also
> > the breather hose between the breather tower and the intake boot needs
to
> be
> > in good shape and not collapsed. Try these things and let me know.....It
> > sounds like a temp sensor or fuel pressure is too high.....You want to
be
> at
> > the low end of the fuel pressure range. How does your van do as far as
> smog
> > levels when the engine is timed at 5 degrees ATDC?...is it clean or is
it
> > failing the smog limits?
> >
> > Good luck and let me know
> >
> > T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jhlauterbach [mailto:jhlauterbach@msn.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 12:56 PM
> > To: Smola, Tony; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: Re: Timing Question
> >
> >
> > Tony, I have my '84 timed about the same point as your '85. Problem I
am
> > having is that I cannot get the idle just where I want it. I put a new
> > auxiliary air regulator in yesterday along with some new vacuum tubing.
I
> > have the idle screw backed out one full turn from full CW. If I run
only
> > 1/2 turn out, engine wants to stall about a minute or so after I start
it
> > up. Digital idle stabilizer tries to keep up idle speed, but it cant;
and
> > exhaust smells very rich. Right now with one turn out, idle after
initial
> > start up is marginal. However, once van is fully warmed up, it wants to
> > idle in the 1000-1200 rpm range.
> >
> > Any suggestions on next steps would be appreciated.
> >
> > John Lauterbach
> > Macon, GA
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Smola, Tony" <TSmola@TRIBUNE.COM>
> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 1:49 AM
> > Subject: Re: Timing Question
> >
> >
> > > You just have to raise the rpms to around 3000 and then take your
timing
> > > light and using the advance knob, turn the dial on the gun until the
> > shallow
> > > groove on the pulley lines up with the case halves. once you line the
> > mark
> > > up, you read what the dial on the timing light indicates.....that's
it,
> > but
> > > you need to have a timing light with advance capabilities to set the
> > timing
> > > by total advance.
> > >
> > > T
> > >
> > > ps: the timing I am suggesting is to try to help those with the 1.9 L
> WBX
> > > motor whose timing is set at 5 degrees AFTER top dead center.....I
would
> > > like to see them advance it to TDC or better yet 6 degrees BTDC with a
> > total
> > > advance of 42 degrees.....2.1's are set at 6 BTDC by the manual...you
> > could
> > > probably cheat a few degrees toward the advance....8-degrees maybe?
> > >
> > > Malibu Tony....85 westy 1.9L 6 degrees BTDC......42 degrees total
> > advance
> > > vacuum lines connected
> > > 1978 911SC targa 3.0L.......would kill you in no time if you had it's
> > > powerplant in a van
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Mark Keller [mailto:kelphoto@islandnet.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 10:36 PM
> > > To: Smola, Tony
> > > Subject: Timing Question
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Tony,
> > >
> > > I just read your signature line again about total timing. I'm curious
> > > about how to check or verify total timing. I would like to A, check
> > > mine as the Bentley say only 5 BTDC, and 35 +- 5 total. And B, suggest
> > > this to the list, as I suspect that more than one LOW POWER, van is
> > > suffering from a malfunction advance, be it vacuum or otherwise. Let's
> > > fix em!
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > >
> > > Mark Keller
> >
>
>
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