Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 12:51:42 -0500
Reply-To: Max Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Max Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Subject: Re: Re-occuring problem
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I concur with Charles. The breakdown on CV joint re-greasing was worth the
cost of the book. I especially like Muir's advice about what to do in your
van while your on the side of the road waiting for your overheated engine to
cool off. Today I think we call it Posturepedic pushups, but he was a
little more"60-ish" in his description. His book got my through my first
40hp rebuild around 1970 and the draings and anecdotal writings are
classics. Maybe I'm preaching to the choir here.
DM&FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles McGehee" <chasm@ELLTEL.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: Re-occuring problem
> Jim,
>
> Sorry. I was referring to John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen
> Alive: A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat
> Idiot." While it is intended for air-cooled VW's through 1978, it has
> lots which is relevant to newer ones, the starter problem fix being such
> (on page 446 of the 16th edition). I got mine from John Muir
Publications,
> P. O. Box 613, Santa Fe, NM 87504 some years ago. It's also available
from
> Amazon.com now (cheaper, too). According to Amazon, a new edition is
about
> to appear. I found that even though I couldn't use a lot that was in it,
> his whole approach to understanding and fixing VW's gave me a lot of
> confidence to strike out on my own.
>
> Charles
>
>
>
> At 10:05 AM 6/14/01 -0400, JBowen7@aol.com wrote:
> >Charles,
> >
> >Excuse my ignorance...what or who is Muir's?
> >
> >Jim
> >
> >In a message dated Thu, 14 Jun 2001 12:27:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >Charles McGehee <chasm@elltel.net> writes:
> >
> ><< Good grief. But I'm not surprised. I heard once that a VW dealer
wanted
> >$150 to put one in. It was numbers like that, plus Muir's instructions,
> >that convinced me to try it myself. It wasn't really hard. Good luck.
> >
> >Charles
> >At 05:37 PM 6/13/01 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Charles,
> > >
> > >I had a mechanic here quote me $60 for the Ford soleniod and $75 for
misc
> > >parts and labor! Bunch of rip off artists....
> > >
> > >Jim
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >In a message dated Tue, 12 Jun 2001 8:55:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > >Charles McGehee <chasm@elltel.net> writes:
> > >
> > ><< JIm,
> > >
> > >Sounds like it does the same thing as the Ford solenoid -- and a lot
> > >cheaper!. I looked it up on BusDepot.com and they get $7.95 for it
plus
> > >shipping. I paid, a few years ago, about $17 for the Ford solenoid
(it's
> > >not actually a Ford but a Borg-Warner) plus tax.
> > >
> > >Well, live and learn. Andrew, are you listening?
> > >
> > >Charles
> > >'85 Westy
> > >
> > >At 06:40 PM 6/12/01 -0400, JBowen7@aol.com wrote:
> > > >Charles,
> > > >
> > > >It does automatically what I've been doing manually for months with a
> > > >piece of coated wire...LOL: It routes power directly from the battery
to
> > > >the solenoid via the relay.
> > > >
> > > >There are four wires (one each; blue, red, black, yellow) that
connect to
> > > >the relay. The wire that connects the ignition switch to the number
50
> > > >terminal on the starter solenoid (the voltage drop culprit), is
removed
> > > >from the number 50 terminal and plugged into the the blue wire from
the
> > > >relay. The red wire runs from the relay to the battery cable
connection
> > > >on the starter solenoid. The black wire runs from the relay to the
number
> > > >50 terminal on the solenoid. The yellow is a ground. Clear as mud,
> > right?
> > > >
> > > >It' great. All I need to hot start my van now is enough energy to
power
> > > >the relay. It's hot in Austin now and she's been starting fine since
I
> > > >installed this relay.
> > > >
> > > >Hope this helps.
> > > >
> > > >Jim Bowen
> > > >'88 Wolfsburg
> > > >'74 Super Beetle Sun Bug
> > > >In a message dated Tue, 12 Jun 2001 2:54:05 PM Eastern Daylight
Time,
> > > >Charles McGehee <chasm@elltel.net> writes:
> > > >
> > > ><< Interesting, Jim. How does it work?
> > > >
> > > >Charles
> > > >'85 Westy
> > > >
> > > >At 01:21 PM 6/12/01 -0400, James Bowen wrote:
> > > > >I'm surprised no one on the list has suggested the Bosch WR1 Low
Voltage
> > > > >Relay kit as a fix for your problem. I've been suffering with the
same
> > > > >problem on my '88 Wolfsburg (Lola). This past weekend I fitted
this
> > Bosch
> > > > >relay to my Lola. Voila! She's fixed. No more hot start
> > problems. Bus
> > > > >Depot and Bus Boy both sell this kit. Good Luck.
> > > > >
> > > > >Jim Bowen
> > > > >'88 Wolfsburg
> > > > >'74 Super Beetle Sun Bug
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >At 04:20 PM 6/11/01 -0500, Andrew Payton wrote:
> > > > > >Well I don't know who read my the story about my trip to Florida
&
> > > all the
> > > > > >problems I incurred with my Vanagon but it seems to have
resurfaced.
> > > > > >Originally I assumed it was the alternator but now I'm not really
sure
> > > > b/c I
> > > > > >installed a new one only a few weeks ago, went ahead & put in a
new
> > > > starter
> > > > > >too.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Basically after driving for about 3.5hrs, Evansville to
Frankfort, I
> > > > pulled
> > > > >up
> > > > > >into my driveway & turned off the van b/c I had to run inside for
> > > > something.
> > > > > >When I came back outside, no more than 5min later, I turned the
key to
> > > > start
> > > > > >my van & there was clearly power but the starter did absolutely
> > > nothing -
> > > > >the>key just kinda sat there. So now I'm stumped & don't really
know
> > > > what to
> > > > >look
> > > > > >for next. Please help me out if ya can. Thanks.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Andrew Payton
> > > > > > Frankfort, KY
> > > > > > 82 Vanagon L (Water-Cooled
> > > >
> > > > >>
> > >
> > > >>
> >
> > >>
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