Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 16:37:15 -0400
Reply-To: Blake Heinlein <heinlein@ACCESSBEE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Blake Heinlein <heinlein@ACCESSBEE.COM>
Subject: Re: Anyone have this tech text?
Alan,
Here is the article that you're looking for. I have actually done this
little addition myself. I didn't follow these exact procedures but it does
work.
Blake Heinlein
http://members.accessbee.com/heinlein/
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Starter relay bypass - posted by Jack Reed <jackr@fortnet.org>
I'd suggest you read this all the way through before you lay finger to van
to familiarize yourself with what you'll need in the way of parts and the
general flow of the work. It's not that it's all that complicated,it's
just that my stream of consciousness style of writing isn't meant to be an
instruction manual but more of a general information guide to the task at
hand. Plus it's a lot less daunting once you've got a picture of the job
in your mind.
Basically what you're going to do by installing a relay prior to the
starter solenoid is to create an amperage amplifier. The wire from the
ignition switch that normally runs to the solenoid will instead be used to
dump voltage/amperage that's very near to the battery's full potential
directly to the solenoid. The reason that you'll be doing this is because
the wiring, connectors, etc. between the ignition switch and the solenoid
have degraded due to corrosion and resistive build up to the point that not
enough current gets to the solenoid to fire it when the starter is hot. In
some extreme cases you won't be able to turn the engine over even when it's
cold.
The solenoid itself can be gotten from Checker (or its equivalent) for
around $5US. Just ask for a generic Ford truck solenoid. It should come
in one of two configurations, either a cross, with the two fat terminals
(outputs) in one plane and two smaller terminals (inputs) in the other
plane. Or the two output terminals are in one plane and the two input
terminals are on one side of the output terminal plane. If you're not sure
what's what ask the counterman (or woman, as the case may be).
I'm going to preface the rest of us this by saying that since this is a
generic document, if things aren't exactly the way I describe on your
vehicle, don't panic, I'm just describing my setup and yours may vary from
it. If you can't figure it out ask the list or write me direct for advice.
Before you start doing anything at all back by the starter, I'd suggest
that you disconnect the negative battery lead and lay it to the side of the
battery. That way you won't accidently fire the starter, get your hair,
shirt, whatever, stuck in the pulley, get your face ripped off and your
wife, girlfriend, whoever won't sue me for a bazillion dollars for not
warning you about this in the first place. If you don't know enough to
disconnect the electrical system when working on the starter, alternator,
etc., I'm not sure you should attempt this in the first place. Read the
Idiot's Guide for a good primer on basic safety techniques.
Find an appropriate place to mount the solenoid by the starter. If the
only place to attach it is to the starter itself, make sure that it's a
ground point and that vibration won't somehow cause the solenoid to come in
contact with a hot lead (positive 12 volts), usually a red wire. But not
always, so check with a voltmeter if unsure of the wire's polarity.
Remove the wire from the spade clip on the end of the solenoid and attach
one of the post type connectors that you picked up at the same time you
bought the solenoid. Forgot 'em? Better go buy some and take the solenoid
with you to make sure they're the right size. The old wrap the wire around
the post and tighten the nut trick won't work if you want this to be a
trouble-free installation. Pick up a few feet of battery cable and a
crimping tool while you're there. Read on for the rest of the parts list.
Attach the ignition wire (the one you just removed from the solenoid) to
one of the input terminals, it doesn't matter which one. Then run a new
wire, preferably a black or brown one, to a ground point on the body from
the other input terminal. Once you're sure that everything's tight, run a
fat (8-12 guage, whatever you have) cable from a direct battery connection
to one of the fat terminals. I used the battery connection at the starter,
you can do the same. Then run another new line (also ~10 gauge) from the
other fat terminal to the exposed spade clip that the original ignition
wire went to. You can use the original connector, so long as you didn't
cut if off too short and you can use an electrical splice to connect the
two ends.
Several things to make sure of:
Make sure that all connectors, posts, are clean and bright. Polish them
with emery cloth if they're not. Make sure that all your crimp connections
are tight by trying (a bit more than half-heartedly) to pull them apart.
Redo the connection if they are rent (asunder, that is).
Make sure that all screw/nut connections (like the hot lead on the
solenoid) are nice and tight as well.
If you're not sure which of the wires to the solenoid is the one from the
ignition switch, put a volt meter in line between the wire you think is the
correct one and ground. With the volt meter on the Volts setting, have
handy friend temporarily reattach the positive lead to the battery and turn
the ignition key to the start position. If you get approximately battery
voltage, you know you've got the right one. Make sure handy friend removes
the battery cable before proceeding.
I did this to my Rabbit and van about two years ago after experiencing
more and more degradation of the starting system and have had 0 problems
since. I used a Bosch fog light relay on the Rabbit in lieu of the big
Ford solenoid since I didn't think it was necessary (and because I had a
spare one).
Take your time, don't cut your wires until you're sure they're the right
size and you should have a nice, neat installation. Use cable ties to keep
possibly errant wires out of the way of spinning, moving things and to
prevent them from rubbing against sharp metal edges and shorting out the
whole works at midnight in a blizzard after a bachelor party. Hell, you
shouldn't be driving then anyway, go crawl in the back and go to sleep.
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Gerry's ftp server is down, and I'm looking for this file:
ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/technical/how-to/starter-solenoid-fix.txt
Anyone have an off-line copy they can send to me?
Thanks!
Alan
