Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 21:19:50 -0700
Reply-To: Coby Smolens <cobys5@HOME.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Coby Smolens <cobys5@HOME.COM>
Subject: Re: coolant gauge were is normal
In-Reply-To: <OE68JvJZkPqkap7p8bV000016be@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Dug this out of my personal archive of old Vanagon List posts:
- Open both front and rear heater valves fully (Rear heater valve is under
rear bench seat accessible through an opening in the passenger side of its
cover box. Pull the valve lever forward to open.)
-- Remove radiator grill (The five slot-headed things in the grill release
when turned 90 degrees)
-- Raise van at front about 16" with a floor jack.
-- Put a big flat drip tray under passenger side of radiator, loosen the
13mm bleeder screw on top passenger side of radiator - DON'T remove it. It's
a bitch to get back in while hot coolant is trying its best to get out. Put
another drip tray at the rear under the main reservoir.
-- Fill the engine with 50/50 mix of VW Autobahn coolant (ZVW 237 102) and
water.
-- Open bleeder valve on the "h"-piece bleeder thingy at the front of the
engine compartment (front is front, remember), or on the little in-line
bleeder assembly ahead of number three cylinder (LF of engine) if yours is
an '83.
-- Start engine.
-- Have a steady-footed friend* hold the engine at 2000 rpm from now 'til
you say otherwise. THIS IS IMPORTANT TO YOUR WELL-BEING WHILE YOU ARE
FILLING THE SYSTEM. The speed of the engine is what forces the coolant to
the front of the van. If it suddenly slows down during this process it WILL
do a damn fine impersonation of a volcano at the fill opening of the main
reservoir.
-- Keep adding coolant until the reservoir is full and clear coolant flows
from the radiator bleeder. (In a system with no cylinder head problems, and
a good water pump and thermostat, filling the system shouldn't take longer
than five minutes or so past the point when the engine reaches full
operating temperature as displayed on your temp gauge, and it can take
less.)
-- When the system seems full and you can feel warm coolant circulating
through the top of the radiator, close the bleeder valve on the radiator and
in the engine compartment, install the cap on the main reservoir and shut
down the engine for half a minute or so. You can say "Otherwise!", to your
friend who's been faithfully white knuckling the wheel and the gas pedal all
this time in terror of letting the engine speed drop lest you be inundated
in 200 degree ZVW. This respite allows any remaining air bubbles to puddle
up in places from which they can be flushed in the next step, and your
friend to prepare for the final stage of the process.)
-- Restart the engine and run at 2000rpm., remove cap from main reservoir,
open bleeder valves.
-- When clear bubble-free fluid flows from radiator, close bleeders, top-up
main reservoir, install cap, tell your friend to relax, shut off engine. Top
up overflow reservoir. Provide your loyal friend with whatever beverage you
promised beforehand, and Bob's your uncle!
NOTE: In spite of the most careful bleeding it is still possible to have
some air trapped in the system. It can eventually displace coolant in the
reservoir. If the level warning light comes on within days, even a couple
weeks of bleeding the system, don't panic. Check the level in both
reservoirs, top up as needed and road test. If all is intrinsically well
with your cooling system you won't do this more than once or maybe twice.
ANOTHER NOTE: There is a bleeder on the rear heater which one can open
during the bleeding process to let any air out of the rear heater, but this
necessitates removal of the cover over the heater which is more or less of a
pain in the ass depending on the rear seat configuration. It is marginally
acceptable to ignore this part of the process and go driving, knowing that
you'll be topping up the system for a while as air from the heater migrates
back to the expansion tank and overflow reservoir.
* MY "friend" is a special tool which resembles a caulking gun with a four
foot long plunger rod and a hook that slips over the steering wheel. I can
slide the plunger down onto the gas pedal and squeeze the "trigger" of the
gun thus setting the pedal exactly where I want it. Works for checking brake
lights, too. I think they're available in some parts stores, I got mine from
Mac Tools.
Coby
Valley Wagonworks
"Intimately acquainted with VW Vans since 1959"
Volkswagen Bus, Vanagon, Westfalia and Eurovan
Repair, Restoration, Modification and Conversion Specialists
- Friendly service for VW's and their humans -
1535 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo, CA 94933
Voice:(415) 457-5628
Fax: (415) 457-0967
http://valleywagonworks.com (new site is not online yet as of 8/25)
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
Of m Burha
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 6:40 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: coolant gauge were is normal
In regards to bleeding the coolant, I've read the Bentley manual and I
opened the valve on thermostat. I didn't open the bleeder screw on radiator
because I believe the manual stated open the bleeder screw if you can't get
the thermostat valve open. So which way should I do it, should I open both?
I didn't see any coolant come out of thermostat valve should I have? Why is
it so important for the Rpm's to be 2000? All info is appreciated. Thanks,
Marcus
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