Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 07:55:02 EDT
Reply-To: VW85Westy@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Peter Krogh <VW85Westy@AOL.COM>
Subject: Cooling system R&R wrap up (long)
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Lessons learned from the cooling system R&R
#1 If you are replacing your engine (especially)or having any major engine
work done, check your cooling system, particularly the long pipes. If you
are on the original radiator, you probably should be thinking about a new one.
#2 If you have not done it already, get a lower temp fan switch. Even if
you don't want to install it yourself, it's something you will need to
provide to a mechanic, because they are hard to find locally. So buy it now.
#3 Check the long pipes. Check the long pipes. Check the long pipes. ( I
think this only applies to vans "85 and older, as the newer ones have plastic
long pipes.)
Cooling system R&R Costs
New Radiator from Bus depot, $190 or so
New Expansion Tank $20
Low temp fan switch $9
molded hoses (I needed three, as the engine shop replaced about 6) $75
Heater Hose (5/8 reinforced) $40 for 50' roll. (Did not need that much but
was cheaper than by-the-foot)
T's (2 for rear heater, top of T is 5/8, leg of T is 1/2) $10 Napa
Hose clamps, $15
Long pipes replacement, Trident Marine Exhaust hose, wire reinforced, one 12'
length, one 13' length, $160 (available at marine supply house)
Cable ties (I had these)
TIME
Most of the time was spent gathering parts and deciding what to do.
Following are estimates of each part of the process:
Draining cooling system 1 hr
Remove Spare tire carrier and drop radiator 1.5 hr
Remove and label heater hose 1 hr.
cut up and remove long pipes 1.5 hr
Replace radiator 1hr
Install long pipes and heater hose 2 hr
Fill and bleed 1hr
Project notes:
LONG PIPES
I had asked the shop that did engine swap to replace all suspect cooling
system parts, but inexplicably, they did nothing to these. The pipes looked
fine for the most visible parts under the van, but reaching around the top of
them in the engine compartment, I felt significant rust. I suggest checking
yours now. I decided to replace with Marine hose because of cost ($160
compared to $300) and ease of installation (can be installed with Gas Tank in
place). The Trident hose and the Shields hose is rated for 350 degrees (as I
remember) , for hundreds of PSI, and for antifreeze. I bought wire
reinforced because that's what they had, but would have been comfortable with
the non-wire stock. Wire helps it keep shape on bends.
I could have just replaced the last 18 inches of the pipes, but then I would
have been worried each time I drove if there was unseen rust somewhere,
waiting to leak. As it turned out, there were a few minor rust spots over
the gas tank that would probably not have given me any trouble for a year,
two or three. I'm glad I replaced the whole thing.
I used a sawzall to cut up and remove the old long pipes. After detaching
them, I cut off the top of the rear (last 18 inches or so to take back to the
shop and show them what they missed) .I then pulled them as far forward as I
could, cut the pipe at the steering rack, and pulled them out the rear.
Watch out for further antifreeze coming out the pipes as you cut. Installing
the flexible was easy, I fed it from the rear of the van over the gas tank,
and was able to reach over the rack in front and pull it forward. I had
labeled the pipes and tried to transfer that information to the flexible, so
that I would know what attached where, but in retrospect, I should have just
consulted Bently (thanks for those who sent diagrams). Be sure to get this
right.
You will see that there is a striaght hose that goes from the long pipe to
the radiator connection that points to the rear of the van. I just ran the
flexible right to the radiator and did not replace this as a separate hose.
On the rear connection, it gets a little trickier. The long pipes go through
the tin at the engine compartment, and the flexible is too big to go through
these holes. Fortunately, there was enough good steel pipe for me to make
connectors (about 8 inches long, cut out of one of the elbows in the old long
pipe) and have these run from the engine compartment cooling hoses, through
the tin, and into the flexible. If your long pipes are totally rusted, I
guess you go to the parts store and improvise. BTW, I also cut out several
other good sections of pipe and have put them in the tool and part bin in the
van so that they are available for repairs. I also put the extra hose
length had in there.
Make sure you anchor the hose above the CV joints so that it does not rub.
HEATER HOSE
This part was very straightforward, easy to run. The hose up front from the
valve to the core looked good, so I did not mess with it.
RADIATOR
Replacing the radiator was pretty straightforward also. I took out the spare
tire holder (two clips on the metal rods that run from the front frame back
to the plate). I also had to remove the accelerator cable protector so that
I could drop the radiator with the fan and the fan switch still attached. It
takes a little work to get it by the air conditioner, but was not too tough.
It would be easier if you had a 29mm socket and could remove the fan switch
first, but no need to buy one.
For replacement, I was able to do it alone, by carefully using the jack to
hold it in place while I reattached the underneath support brackets. I first
got it in place enough that I could put the brackets back on, then jacked it
up slowly until it was snug on top, then adjusted the brackets.
ANTIFREEZE
I wanted to reuse the antifreeze, so I bought the cheapest water I could,
dumped the jugs out and used them to hold the antifreeze. I did need to use
a big roasting pot as a further catch basin because it is messy. I guess I
saved about 2.5 of the 3.5 gallons of coolant that came out. Started with
heater hoses, then did long pipes. Used C clamps and pieces of wood to
control the flow out where I could.
RESULTS
The van runs much cooler now. I can't seem to get the needle above halfway,
even in bad traffic. I think the new radiator is much more efficient, and
the fan switch comes on much sooner. As I said above, I suggest the fan
switch replacement for everyone.
Well, that's about it. If you have any fiurther questions, drop me a line.
Peter & and very cool Zippy.