Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 15:26:33 -0700
Reply-To: vanagon@ALPHAAUTOSALES.NET
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alpha Auto Sales <vanagon@ALPHAAUTOSALES.NET>
Subject: Ultimate Fix #2
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
Vanagon cooling system bleeding.
I've read the factory recommended method of cooling system bleeding,
done it many times, many years ago. What a joke! I tried to imagine Quito
and Alfred driving rows of Vanagons up a ramp in Hanover with a 15 inch rise
on it, then yelling back and forth in Yugoslavian or Hungarian, maybe both,
all the while coolant spills all over, steam billowing, but this is the factory,
so of course there is a recovery gutter underneath. I think not.
Then I read a method of using vacuum to suck coolant through a cooling
system in a tech journal and tried it. No Joy. Fabricating a fitting to
attach where the bleeder screw goes was fruitless, simply no clearance above
the bleed hole and the upper radiator mount. Besides, my hand got awfully
tired operating my hand pumped Mity Vac. And the vacuum was broken when
disconnecting the marginal fitting I did come up with, no way to maintain
the column of water (coolant) pressure on removal.
I then realized a pressure bleed system was more likely what the factory
used, how to implement??
The first version used shop air regulated down to 5 psi through a
pressure regulator, feeding pressurized coolant in a 5 gallon bottled water
bottle through the hose fitting on the pressure cap. Worked well enough,
still took 45 minutes or so, but on return to the shop after a weekend, the
bottle had cracked dumping several gallons of 50/50 Autobahn coolant and
water on the shop floor. I hate when that happens. The next version was
built in a Gerry (sp?) Can and worked fine until a less savvy co-worker
decided the process could happen faster without the regulator and connected
160 psi shop air directly to the Gerry Can. Quick action averted disaster,
the only damage was a severely swollen Gerry can, but clearly this was not
the safest method, DON'T TRY IT AT HOME!!
Years later after moving to another shop, the Gerry Can was no longer
available, nor was the owner interested in funding the fabrication of
another since VW's were not the main focus of business. I needed another
method, another one that worked quickly, easily and cleanly.
I hope this link works, if not, search the Matco site for "funnel" and
you'll find it, you are looking for the "Spill Free Funnel"
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2270&page=1&
#29488
I had purchased the above listed funnel and found it almost
indispensable for cooling system filling on most makes of cars, but of
course it won't fit a VW. But I had long ago bought the proper adapter,
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&select=&cat=2153
, here you are looking in the "Cooling System Adapters" section for the
"RADIATOR ADAPTER -VW, AUDI", but I am sure you bargain hunter, DIY types
already have this tool for dealing with the ridiculous Vanagon cooling
system.
( please note, the URLs above are in no way meant to be a plug or endorsement
for
MATCO Tools. The same or similar tools can likely be found elsewhere.) (THIS is
a plug!! I rate MATCO right up there with Snap-On as equal but different. I
expect your opinion may differ, I need no flames.)
Anyway, drill two small holes across the top diameter of the funnel for
a welding rod or coat hanger for a hanging support. Hang it from the upper
lip of the rear lid opening. A trip to the hardware store will get you a 2
foot or so piece of hose to extend the funnel above the adaptor you have
screwed to the expansion tank, this hose can be a simple snug, slip fit, no
clamps needed or desired, jack the front the recommended 15 inches (or whatever
the spec is), making sure the top of the funnel is higher than the bleeder hole
up front, and
fill the system with the engine off. When air stops flowing from the
bleeder, close the system and drive to operating temperature. Should the temp
gauge
climb rapidly to the top within the first mile or so, you have an air pocket
at the thermostat, simply shut off the engine and re-start, it will usually
clear, the temp gauge will return to normal. Back to your workspace and top
off the expansion and overflow bottles.
A related side note, if you should have your thermostat in hand, drill
ONE 1/8" hole in the "hat" section of the main body of the thermostat as a
bleed hole to allow air bubbles to pass easily. On diesels and early
Wasserboxers, position this hole nearest possible in the upright position,
later model 'stats lay horizontal, so the position matters not.
I remain puzzled as to why VW decided to abandon the slick brake bleeder
type bleed screw found on the diesels if favor of the removable 8mm bolt
found on the Wasserboxers.
Re: Ultimate Fix #1, I typo'd the year of the Good Dr. *****'s Synchro
as a 1996, I meant to type 1986, though it may have been a 1987, I can't
recall. These Microsoft compatible keyboards have a habit of continually
moving the keys as I type. I was further flamed by Ben T in a "for you eyes
only" private e-mail about my spelling of "Synchro". Sorry all, it is not my
mis-spelling, rather the intentional illiteracy of some VW marketing hack, I
really can't be bothered with such minutiae. Ben T further questioned my
credibility, that post and this speak for themselves.
I gotta get more coffee now while I ponder a possible topic for another
post.
_____________________________________________
Addendum, written several days later:
The problem these tools and procedure address is the need for the bleeder
hole in the radiator to be the highest point in the system so that bubbles,
hopefully all of them will rise there and escape, is compounded by the filler
being lower than the bleeder making the coolant naturally flow out of the
filler. So VW came up with that ridiculous solution you read in the manuals of
running the engine and therefore the pump to force the coolant forward and up.
This long funnel procedure accomplishes the same without running the engine,
needing an assistant, and all the attendant heat,noise and spill mess.
Any solution you can devise hardware wise that extends the filler higher
than the bleeder while the bleeder remains higher than any other part of the
cooling system will accomplish the same. I included the URLs to the funnel and
pressure tester adapter to show the tools helpful to anyone doing this work on a
regular basis.
Frankly, I strongly recommend that anyone owning a Vanagon and self
servicing it own a standard Stant brand pressure tester set, or equivalent,
along with the adaptors for both the bottle threads and for the cap. As a
professional, all major services on all liquid cooled vehicles get a thorough
cooling system test, the pressure test being the most fundamental along with
hydrometer readings. I haven't used one yet, but I hear the refractometers are
even better, certainly they are far more expensive. Recommended best procedure
would be to change the coolant annually, please be responsible and recycle
appropriately.
Seems that if one could raise the front to the height that would get the
bleeder and filler EXACTLY the same height might work well too, but it would be
a lot of work to measure out unless you had a perfectly level work surface.
_________________________
Since I've been Mike Millered in advance, I can really only offer
speculation about his higher temp gauge readings following a coolant change in
his Wastepalia Psyco.
I learned the hard way many years back that an Audi 5000 Turbo runs 20
degrees F hotter on straight coolant than on a proper 50/50 mix. While coolant
is certainly necessary to raise the boiling point and prevent corrosion, it
isn't the best at taking and dissipating heat, therefore the mix. My guess is
that diluted coolant weaker than 50/50 may actually cool better than a correct
mix, so the stuff you dumped cooled better than fresh, ONLY guessing here folks
and presenting as such.
I have observed this same phenomenon in Vanagoons many times, the temp gauge
reading one or two needles width higher following a coolant change with no ill
effects. Seems my Westy (A REAL Westy from the Westmoreland plant in PA!!) does
the same. Hmm, my gauge is running a little lower than normal, perhaps it's time
for fresh coolant!!
Please no direct replies, use the list, I may reply privately.
Sincerely,
Ron Austin
webmaster@alphaautosales.net
'79 Westmoreland Rabbit
'71 Chevy C-20
'74 Gitane Pista
'98 Specialized Allez
Jeep Dreams
p.s. http://www.alphaautosales.net/vanagon90/index.htm is still
available........
p.p.s. I'm still not in Sales, I'm only the webmaster..........
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