Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 23:56:40 -0500
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: I need advice..
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
There are about twenty things to look for in an aircooled Vanagon
/Westfalia
Here Goes. ( I know you said this one wasn't running but I'm going to go
through the list for you.)
I'm going to vote for a dripped valve seat as why it won't start, if the
starter turns the engine over.
#1. Be sure the engine number starts with CV, that means its a 2000cc
with the aluminum case (Not Earlier Transplant)
#2. Start the engine let it run while you open the engine compartment and
see if most ignition parts are Bosch. You're listening for any knocks,
vacuum leaks, rough idle.
#3. Get into the drivers seat and depress the clutch and see if the
transmission will shift into all gears. Your testing the transmission
shift linkage, synchronizers and clutch action.
#4. With the emergency brake set see if the engine has enough power to
drive the car about twenty feet without the engine dying. You're testing
the power of the engine at low speed.
#5. Turn the steering wheel and chick for slack of looseness in the
steering, turn on the wipers, turn signals, head lights, emergency
flashers, bright lights. You're also keeping an eye on the oil pressure
idiot light to be sure that it isn't coming on indicating low oil
pressure. (the engine is probably warm by now).
#6. Test the radio and put a tape or CD in the player if it has one. Move
the outside drivers mirror and see if it feels tight. Move the heater
controls and see if they are bound up, locker or not operating. Turn on
the heater blower, it has three speeds.
#7. Drive the car around the block and shift through all gears, pay
attention to the clutch action, shift resistance and any unusual noises.
Back the van up (in a safe place) quickly to see if the pinion gears are
noisy in reverse.
#8. Get the car back to the sellers drive way and look under the car at
the rear, you're looking for leaking oil. check out the exhaust system
for leaks, rust, smoke (black or gray). You're doing all this with the
engine running to get it hot enough to see if that oil light is going to
come back on.
#9. Turn off the engine and leave the car in gear with the brake off. Get
yourself a flashlight and a drop cloth or a piece of card board box to
lay on and slide under the car in front of the rear wheels, look at the
gas tank to see if it has been crushed, look at the CV boots to see if
they are torn, visually check for any thing that is hanging loose under
the front side of the van.
#10. Move your pad or cloth to the rear of the car and check to see if
the sheet metal covers are under the car below the push rod tubes.
Visually check for excessive oil around the perimeter of the covers. Look
forward of the engine to see if the heater ductwork is all in place.
Check out the heater boxer (heat transfer boxes) for excessive rust,
dings etc. At the rear of the engine try to see if the heater ducts are
in place and the muffler heat shield is in place over the muffler. As a
general rule you want a complete exhaust system and not an after market
system that will not pass State Inspections. Look at the oil drain plug
(it should be a 13mm head bolt and not an overside bolt of 14 or 15mm
head size).
#11. Look under the front of the vehicle and see if the Rack and Pinion
boots are in good condition, grab the tie rods that go the steering rack
and see if they are tight (rotation of 30 degrees is OK). Check to see if
it has a spare tire and the condition of the plate holding the spare
tire. In all of your flashlight test under the car you are also looking
for any signs of rust. Visually check the strut arm bushings for splits.
#12. Go back to the engine compartment and open the cover and set it
aside out of your way, take note of the condition of the insulating
material (has there been an engine fire?). The engine is now cool enough
for you to run your compression check. What your looking for in this warm
compression test is 90 or above compression on all cylinders and not more
that 5 Psi difference from the highest to the lowest of the readings.
I've seen engines still running good with 70 Psi compression but about 80
Psi is the time to start thinking about an engine rebuild. While removing
the spark plugs look for metal in the threads (metal in the threads
indicate that the engine has been excessively hot).The spark plug threads
in the heads could be stripped also. Visually check to see if the little
wire cable is connected to the cross-shaft on the cooling flaps. Look
down the opening at the oil pressure switch to see if the sender is
leaking at the base or around the Bakelite top. Visually check the wire
loom to see if the car has had an engine fire. Touch the cover on the AFM
to see if it is loose or appears to have been open and resealed. Check
the rubber boot between the AFM and the throttle body for splits, cracks
and hose connections.
#13. Check the condition of the alternator fan shroud and the plastic
heater pipes going down to the heater boxes.
Any other items are just visual as to appearance on trim, tire condition,
tire wear pattern, appliance operation, pop-top condition etc.
Best of luck.
If you can get the Westy for around $1500.00 it is still well worth
having the engine rebuilt, but of course there are always other things
that go with a rebuild that run the price up about 500$.
Stan Wilder
On Sat, 6 Oct 2001 22:30:50 -0500 Bill Johnson <bjohns2k@BELLSOUTH.NET>
writes:
> Tomorrow morning I am going to look at a 1982 air-cooled Westphalia.
> I
> talked to the owner on the phone. I seems he is young and with no
> mechanical experience. He bought the vehicle and drove it for one
> month.
> Then he says it would not start. He says that he bought a new
> starter, but
> did not install it. He bought a new battery and put in a voltage
> regulator.
> It still did not start. I quizzed him further, and he said he had
> no
> instrument lights.
>
> I suspect something in the switch, fuse, or the ground. Am I wrong?
> I
> would appreciate any advice on what to check. He also said that
> sometimes
> the van was slow shifting from 1st to 2nd. I plan on doing a
> compression
> check, if I can get the engine to turn over. He wants $1500. I plan
> on an
> offer of $1000. From talking to him, I would say that the body is
> in
> average shape and the camping equipment also. Is there anything
> special
> that I should look out for? I don't want to rebuild the 2.0L.
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
| 
