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Date:         Thu, 4 Oct 2001 21:55:27 -0700
Reply-To:     Leon Korkin <korkwood@WSHOST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Leon Korkin <korkwood@WSHOST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Double T Trouble
In-Reply-To:  <93.113c5671.28ee8a83@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The plastic fittings used in Vanagons are probably made out of ABS, one of few plastics able to withstand temperatures in cooling system and chemicaly stable. Even if fillers(glass fibers) are used to stiffen fittings it shouldn't affect long-term stability. If only the plastic parts were made out of virgin granules material and not regrind... I successfuly welded and saved from thrashcan many plastic parts including Vanagon parts using ordinary small low-wattage soldering iron. Instrument cluster for one... Leon 85 Subwagen Westy

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of Frank Grunthaner Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 9:01 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Double T Trouble

One of the key problems with older plastics especially those exposed to hot glycol/water mixtures is that the plasticizers get leached out of the polymer. The result is at least embrittlement and often phase separation of inorganic fillers which had been added to the original chemical "alloy" to provide hardness and rigidity (sometimes swelling reduction). The net result is often fractures and crumbling under stress. In general adhesives work poorly here because the inorganic filler coats (actually segregates out on) the fracture surface. The adhesive then tries to bond to the equivalent of a thin film of chalk. Repair requires another polymer that can encase the original part using it as a mold. Fiberglass resins and specially formulated silicones work well, but amines and epoxies will fare poorly against the hot water/glycol mix. A copper brazed custom part is easy to fabricate, Electrolysis concerns can be mitigated by acid cleaning, rinsing in pure or distilled water three times, drying then immersion in a marine Teflon coating (paint), followed by a long term (few hours) cure on in an oven at 250F.

Frank Grunthaner


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