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Date:         Thu, 4 Oct 2001 08:32:13 +0000
Reply-To:     Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Subject:      Re: I-4 conversion  Questions
Comments: To: Dennis Atkins <bikeputz@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <F16oMZWv5CHwogAZUgT000132c1@hotmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Hi,

can give you a couple of suggestions about a throttle cable.

(I am not sure what kind of attachment point you have on the throttle valve - ball on an arm or plastic "cam" and metal arm)

The diesel cable has a "rod" attached to the forward end where it connects to the foot pedal assembly. At the rear (the last 3 feet or so are contained in a factory installed cable housing, meaning you can't pull all of cable out of the housing without cutting one end) there is a plastic "socket" piece that attaches to a "ball on an arm" on the diesel injector pump.

In my I4 conversion I connected a piece (4" or so) of bike brake cable (has metal knob on end) to the diesel cable so that i could use the plastic cam and metal arm arrangement. I connected the cables using zinc plated, copper oval sleeves, the kind used in marine applications (standing rigging, lifelines etc) crimped on using a heavy duty swaging tool that my neighbour has. I think you can borrow/rent these tools at marine supply stores.

Interestingly enough, my neighbour has horses not boats, he uses the swager for a particular kind of horsey fencing system.

Note, I had to slot the sleeve to fit it onthe existing cable, used dremel and abrasive disk.

The the brake cable runs around the cam and attaches to the slotted arm. Using slotted washers between the cable knob and the arm gives me a bit of adjustment without going under the front of the van! I had originally thought about using a barrel adjuster (as used on some bike brake levers), but the quick and dirty slotted washer system works well.

Alternately, instead of using a diesel cable, buy some cable from the marine supply store and crimp on your own metal rod for the front (suggestions: stemball fitting or even a swage stud), and after feeding cable through existing wbx cable housing, crimp on a copper stop sleeve at the throttle end.

I hope you live near the sea, or the Great Lakes or all these suggestions are completly useless!

Alistair

albell@uvic.ca '82 Westy, diesel=>I4 gas

/"\ ASCII Ribbon Campaign \ / No HTML/RTF in email X No Word docs in email / \ Respect Open Standards!

on 4/10/01 3:49 AM, Dennis Atkins at bikeputz@HOTMAIL.COM wrote:

> Hey guys, > I am in the middle of installing a Audi 3A 2.0 in my van and have run into > some "challenges" > 1st what do I do for a throttle cable , the wbx one is about 18" too > short.Would a diesel cable work? > > 2nd what do I use to connect the air flow meter to the throttle body. > I need tubing with an O.D. of 2 3/4" and don't want to use plumbing pipe. > Does any body know a source of steel or aluminum tubing in that size > > 3rd > I plan to run my exhaust system forward to the center of the van and then > back to the rear,does anybody know of a muffler with a 2 1/4 inlet and > outlet on the same end? > > Thats all for now ,I'll probably have more when I get further along. > Thanks, > Dennis > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp >


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