Date:         Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:07:09 -0500
Reply-To:     Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Ultimate Fix #1
Comments: To: Rubatoguy@mindspring.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

If you look at the VW factory connectors you'll see........ brass to
brass.
Most crimp on are copper or cheap alloy with a zink / lead electronic
plating on them.
There isn't anything wrong with crimp ons but if you want "0" resistance
the solder joint is good insurance.
I'd say the best insurance to good "0" resistance wiring is to stay out
of Pep Boys, Chief Auto and such and always buy good Delco or other known
brand name of copper wire and If you've ever gotten wire from Radio
Shaque you may notice fewer strands for the same # wire than the higher
quality wire from better sources. The insulation on cheap wiring often
doesn't meet the requirements for engine compartment temperatures.
If you make long runs of wire from the back to the front of your van for
instruments that read mili-amp signals be sure that you don't twist the
wire more than a turn or two during the run, higher current passing
through adjacent wires can cause magnetic signals to be generated.
Reference: Twisted TWX wires for signal light vehicle sensors are
required to have a twist every six or eight inches to generate a magnetic
pulse.

Stan Wilder
83 Westfalia Air Cooled

On Wed, 24 Oct 2001 23:53:13 -0700 Todd Last <Rubatoguy@mindspring.com>
writes:
> Thanks for the info. I wondered about the wisdom of soldering
> automotive
> wires. I'd always heard that a good crimp is better because the
> solder makes
> the wire brittle and more prone to breaking.
> Of course, that means using a decent crimping tool, not the El
> Cheapos out
> there.
>
> regards,
> Todd
>
> Stan Wilder wrote:
>
> > Generic solders from Radio Shaque etc. is about what you need for
> general
> > soldering needs. There are also specialty fluxes that are Acid,
> Rosin and
> > Alkali base depending on your specialty application. Flux is
> basically a
> > cleaning solvent incorporated into the solder (hollow core) or
> applied by
> > brush or squirt bottle.
> > Since every body is trying to make an extra buck on every sale
> there are
> > also solvents for removing extra flux.
> > Over the years I've done quite a bit of silver soldering, liquid
> flux
> > welding (nickle silver) and it gets complicated the more you
> discuss it.
> > One of the tricks to soldering is to quit with the heat before the
> solder
> > runs back under your insulation and solidifies making your wire
> brittle
> > at the connection.
> >
> > Stan Wilder
> >
> > On Wed, 24 Oct 2001 21:10:12 -0700 Todd Last
> <Rubatoguy@MINDSPRING.COM>
> > writes:
> > > Is flux generic?
> > > I know that plumbing solder and electrical solder are
> different.
> > > (The plumbing
> > > solder having an acid core.) I was always told never to use
> plumbing
> > > solder (acid
> > > core) for electrical wiring unless you want to have the wires
> > > corrode over time.
> > >
> > > Todd
> > > '88 Westy
> > >
> > > Matthew Pollard wrote:
> > >
> > > > Flux.  Flux is what is used when soldering copper pipes and
> is
> > > nice to use
> > > > when soldering circuits. A lot of solder is 'flux-core' so it
> is
> > > often not
> > > > necessary. BUT to clean the copper, you may want to use some
> > > plumbing flux
> > > > (just dip the end in and scrub. Maybe heat a bit with a torch
> > > too). Or if
> > > > you have access to some chemicals- Hydrochloric acid (0.01M)
> will
> > > do the
> > > > job of cleaning copper, so will muric acid (same thing!) or
> MAYBE,
> > > but i'm
> > > > not sure- Acetic Acid- aka Vinegar (but i think vinegar is
> too
> > > weak).
> > > >
> > > > Or just keep scrubbing!
> > > > -Matthew
> > > >
> > > > Matthew Pollard          "Racing with the wind and flirting
> with
> > > death
> > > > Dept. Of Chemistry        So have a cup of coffee and catch
> your
> > > breath"
> > > > University of Idaho
> > > > www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, 24 Oct 2001, Laurence Smith wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I am attacking all my ground wires with a vengence and doing
> the
> > > Ultimate
> > > > > Fix #1 on them.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have discovered that almost all of them in the engine
> > > compartment are crap
> > > > > and in poor condition.  So now I am SOLDERING new eyelets
> etc
> > > (as per
> > > > > Ultimate Fixc #1) on all of them.
> > > > >
> > > > > Question: All the ground wires have this black oxidation
> crud on
> > > them, even
> > > > > when I strip the insulation off.  I've tried cleaning with
> a
> > > wire brush but
> > > > > it does a poor job.  Is there a better technique or goop
> that I
> > > can use to
> > > > > clean up the copper before soldering?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks.
> > > > >
> > > > > Laurence Smith
> > > > > Hamilton, Ontario
> > > > > 90 Westy "Fanumbos"
> > > > >
> > >
> > ________________________________________________________________
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>
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