Date:         Mon, 29 Oct 2001 23:13:03 EST
Reply-To:     Wolfvan88@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Lilley <Wolfvan88@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Various Upgrades for Lilleyed WBX... PT2
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;


SEALANT:
Curil sealant (German sealant the WBX was made with originally)

http://www.bus-boys.com/bbzvc.htm

K2 and T

www.bus-boys.com


Full rebuild:

Add Counterweights to the crank-  adds life to main bearings and reduces 
vibrations

Demello Machine Shop
15902 Manufacture Lane Hunting Beach, CA 92649

714-898-7405
Contact- Bob

Counterweighted Crank/Engine Balance/Rod rebuild
Balance all the rotating parts: Crank, pulley, flywheel, pressure plate and 
the rods balanced end for end.

Lighten flywheel ONLY IF ADDING COUNTERWEIGHT TO CRANK.  This improves 
acceleration off the line.


CAM CHANGE:

WebCam:

Stock Cam
                    Stock    With 1.1:1       1.25        1.3         1.4 
Intake          .330        .363                .423      .429        .462
Exhaust      .317        .349                .396       .412       .444
Duration*    255°       255°             255°        255°       255°         
*Approxmite figure


Modified #91 Grind HYD    With 1.1:1          1.25            1.3             
 
Intake               .363                  .399                 .454          
 .472
Exhaust            .363                  .399                 .454           
.472
Duration           265 °                265 °               265°          
265°
   
   
The number you want is #91 grind.
You might get some resistance from them, but talk about what you plan to 
change.



Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, get an adjustable single diaphragm 
regulator. 
CB Performance, You might have to persuade them, talk to Baya and mention my 
name, she is aware of T1 parts I have used with the WBX engine.  This would 
allow you to set the fuel pressure.  The vacuum is different from stock due 
to the cam change and a new stock might not read exactly correct.

I would not use synthetic oil until after around 5000 miles to allow for the 
rings to seat. Then use a quality synthetic.  Redline, Mobil, etc.


OTHER:

Throttle body: sand the inside to make it smoother and less restrictive to 
air flow (small amount but all changes add to bigger change)?
Match port: air runners to the intake port on the heads?  
    The air runners have about a @2 mm smaller opening.  This allows for 
slightly more air flow to the pistons. 
    It can be done by using the gasket as a template and matching to the 
intake port, then grind the air runners out to match.

Match port the exhaust system:  
     The elbow on stock systems seem to have a mismatch on one of the two 
pipes coming into it is 4 mm off-center.  
     I ground one edge of the port at an angle to remove the restriction.

Wrap the exhaust pipes with heat wrapping: Gene Berg has this.  It keeps the 
heat in the exhaust and reduces heat radiation from the pipes into the engine 
compartment.  
    This keeps the exhaust gases hotter and helps to maintains a high exhaust 
gas velocity throughout the pipe.  
    This allows the exhaust to have better a scavenging effect on the gases.  

    With the increased duration you can give the intake a better head start 
towards the piston by the exhaust gases exiting pulling the intake charge in 
sooner.  
     The air flow meter measures the amount and the ECU knows the amount and 
provide the correct amount of fuel based on the engines sensors.  
     When you wrap the exhaust (I used ceramic coatings) the exhaust gases 
stay hotter and therefore travel faster, providing a higher vacuum pressure 
(scavenging effect)
     as they exit and pulling more fuel into the chamber, providing more 
power at ALL rpms, and when you make more power at all rpms you need to use 
less pedal to make the same speed.
     Another benefit is that all the rubber parts in the engine compartment 
will last longer, especially the rubber coolant hoses, 
     due to the trapped heat the parts face during running. I can take a two 
hour cruise and the engine compartment is warm, I can put my hand on the 
alternator and it is warm.

Match port the oil pump to the case.  The outlet is smaller then the case 
inlet.  Improves oil flow and reduces oil cavitation.
Sand the top of the oil pump to .000 clearance between the gears and the top 
WITHOUT THE GASKET (the gasket gives it the needed gap)



Robert

[text/html]