Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 00:02:53 -0800
Reply-To: Edward Nutter <eanutter@POSTOFFICE.PACBELL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Edward Nutter <eanutter@POSTOFFICE.PACBELL.NET>
Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums?
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The castle nut is cranked down to over 300 ft/lbs. I forget the exact
amount but it's in the manual. It's enough to expand the nuts diameter
slightly, enough to grip the drum. Later when rust accumulates the two
pieces are really hard to separate. I've tried heat and hammering. If you
do get the drum off and find that the brakes do need to be changed you'll
then discover that A) the wheel stud carrier that the castle nut is holding
on is in the way and that you can't get at the break pieces, and B) you
won't be able to get the drum back on because of the expansion of the stud
carrier.
Get used to the idea of removing and replacing those nuts, or pay a shop to
check and maintain your rear brakes.
There is a special tool for those nuts. It's not terribly expensive,
although I've had mine for years. I got it at a local VW specialty shop.
It looks like a big box end wrench with a very short handle with ears.
There's an square hole for a 1/2 in breaker bar. You'll also need a large
ball peen hammer or a small (4 lb) hand sledge. Here's how I use them.
1. Remove the cotter pin from the nut.
2. With the van on the ground, squire a whole lot of penetrating oil into
the threads.
3. Go do something else for at least an hour.
4. Stick the breaker bar (typically at least 18" long) into the special
tool and apply it to the nut.
5. Apply some pressure on the nut, enough to hold the tool in place when
you start banging on the special tools ear with the hammer or hand sledge.
6. Start banging in the direction of removing the nut. The combination of
the breaker bar pressure, the impacts from the sledge, and the penetrating
oil will start the nut moving. At some point you'll be able to move the nut
without using the hammer. Stop there.
7. Jack up the van. Apply the parking brake and finish removing the nut.
8. Release the parking brake and remove the two 10 mm nuts.
9. Remove the drum. It'll be easy at this point.
You need to remove the stud carrier to actually change the brakes. I've
found it's a good idea to remove it anyway and liberally grease the axle
spline. The carrier also holds in the axle bearings so don't dig in there
too far. I also use plenty of grease on the threads when replacing the
castle nut, so I don't have to use penetrating oil next time.
Once you get the brakes inspected or changed you need to torque the big nut.
1. Put the stud carrier back on and screw the castle nut back on hand
tight.
2. Reinstall the drum and its 10 mm bolts.
3. Adjust the brakes until they drag noticably on the drum. Match the drag
on both sides since you'll be changing both brakes sets at once, won't you.
4. Apply the parking brake. If it's not tight enough, repeat step three
until it can be applied firmly.
5. Use the special tool and breaker bar to tighten the nut to 150 ft/lbs or
so.
6. Put the van back on the ground.
7. I apply the final torque by carefully slipping the special tool onto the
nut with the breaker bar extending out to the right. I carefully climb up
on the end of the bar, and my 210 lbs on an 18" arm will apply reasonably
close the the 300+ ft/lbs required.
8. Replace the cotter pin.
Gnarlodious wrote:
> How do I check the rear brakes?
> Don't tell me I have to remove that huge castle nut! I measured it at
> 1 13/16, is that right? What is the best tool for the job? Pipe wrench? I
> don't even have one but seriously...What is the minimal way to do it?
>
> Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com
