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Date:         Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:24:53 -0800
Reply-To:     Todd Last <Rubatoguy@MINDSPRING.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Todd Last <Rubatoguy@MINDSPRING.COM>
Subject:      Re: Installing front springs 2WD
Comments: To: Vanagon Man <puzerewski@MSN.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I've found that the stabilizer bar is easier to remove if you unbolt BOTH sides.

To rebolt, either do this when the van is back on the ground (off the jack), or while you are raising the lower control arm to position it to install the lower shock-absorber bolt.

I've found it much easier to also remove the bolt to the radius rod (strut rod) as this prevents the control arm from lowering all the way - hindering easy spring replacement. Odds are if your stabilizer bar rubber and metal spacer pieces are rusty, the radius rod rubber and metal pieces will be even worse.

What worn stabilizer bar and radius rod bushings look like. ('88 with 140K) http://rubatoguy.home.mindspring.com/bushing.html

Tip: Mark the threads on the tie rod ends and radius rod ends with paint so that you can position them in exactly the same spot upon reassembly so your alignment is not too far off. You should get a new alignment if you replace the springs.

I have a short how-to with photos at: http://rubatoguy.home.mindspring.com/springs2.html

Todd '88 westy

Vanagon Man wrote:

> I have done this on 2 different vans. > > Jack up the side that you need to remove and take off the wheel. Take off > tie rod end loose on that side. undo bolt on bottom of stabilizer link. Use > crowbar, prybar, etc. BE CAREFUL USING THE CROWBAR>>>A HARDHAT US A GOOD > IDEA HERE...........BTDT To remove threaded end out. Before you do this, > you will find that the 2 rubber pieces where the threaded end is are worn, > and the steel sleeve there are worn and pitted from rust. You may want to > get these from the dealer and have them on hand prior to doing this.......or > use the old stuff...your choice. > > Now, once you have the threaded end out, you can pull the top part that had > the rubber bushing out, carefully by pulling the threaded end at an angle. > To put pack on, I used a little silicone lube on the flared end and a little > on the inside of the bushing...........The whole job takes about an hour > tops. > > I replaced bushings in one van, and i had another that had a broken > stabilizer link......... > > Adam P > 81 westy (3 of them) > 74 beetle > 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) > 70 Single Cab "Whitey" > Vanagon Partsmobiles > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Clemens" <jbclem@EARTHLINK.NET> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 12:51 AM > Subject: Installing front springs 2WD > > > I'm installing the new front springs on my 1983 Westfalia and I have two > > quick questions. On the front springs is there a top and a bottom? There > > was no mention of this in the limited instructions that came with them, > and > > the Bentley manual says to make sure the "straight end" of the spring goes > > on the bottom. Well great, the original ones have straight ends on the > top > > and the bottom. The new ones have straight ends with slight chamfers, but > > one end has more of a chamfer than the other. > > Also, if you line up the top end with the orginal spring top end, the > bottom > > ends don't match in location(not even close). Does this mean anything in > > the great scheme of things? I hope someone knows the answer. > > > > Other question, I'm replacing the bushing where the stabilizer link fits > > over the stabilizer bar(the stabilizer link is the vertical piece between > > the stabilizer bar and the lower control bar, it has a eye on the top > > portion(for the bushing) and a threaded piece on the bottom). I need to > > know an easy way to remove the stabilizer link from the stabilizer bar, > the > > bushing isn't worn enough to slide off over the flared end of the > stabilizer > > bar and I don't want to remove the entire bar(and use a press) if I can > > avoid it. A good trick would be real welcome(also for the reverse > > installation). > > > > Thanks for any suggestions. > > > > John > >


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