Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 03:11:14 -0800
Reply-To: Evil Pig <evilpig@MINDSPRING.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Evil Pig <evilpig@MINDSPRING.COM>
Subject: Fw: 62 bus question- NVC My $.02
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi,
They're cute as a button, I didn't really enjoy the two I test drive but
that was because the kingpin was out on both. This is a regular
maintenance item, and
crucial to your steering, keep an eye on it.
I did in fact have a 71 I loved for a while but gave it up for heat, and
other foolish
concerns. I contemplate one every now and again, but then I'm in danger
of
Van Acquisition Syndrome (VAS).
If you get a real made in Mexico for hydraulic lifter case then don't fret
valves. I don't know anyone who's importing them, but that doesn't mean
they can't be had,
be careful if someone says they have one, they were impossible to get a
couple years
ago when I still had my old 71.
If you put hydraulic heads on a mechanical lifter case, don't expect to be
able to turn the key and drive it if it's been sitting for a while, it
will take a while
for the lifters to pump up if they ever do without roasting the motor, I
haven't seen that
happen but have heard of it from reasonably knowledgeable types (coupla
mechanics).
I suggest sticking with the mech lifters and just learning to set them. I
have
seen perfectly good motors toasted due to the valves tightening up.
My 71 ran a plain old 1600 dp with a 34 3 carb setup (stock for that year)
setting the valves wasn't a real big deal and could be done in 15 -20 min
with a screw driver, jack and lug wrench after you've done it a couple
times.
You don't need the lug wrench, but the tire off but it made it a lot easier
besides giving something to sit on.
Pick up a copy of the Idiots Guide to VW repair, you'll need it. The vans
are great because they can be repaired with duct tape and bailing wire
(I've done this) in a
pinch,but you have to know where to put it and how to apply it because you
WILL end up on the side
of the road, I've bailed out a reasonable number of folks who bought them
without
thinking they were buying a 30-40 yo vehicle and planning accordingly.
If you're in the Pac NW I can recommend some shops,
and suggest wherever you are to have a pro VW mechanic look it over
before you buy, his/her 50 buck fee is a lot cheaper then serious
structural problems or similar expensive items you might miss, even if
you're pretty good at that sort of thing, an extra set of eyes is always
useful{I keep spares just for that reason:oD}
Either way Best Luck.
Tromper
1982 Dieselfant II
"The Manatee"
"It's all the same stuff. Just Different"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Faust, Melissa G" <moby@INFOBLVD.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2001 9:05 AM
> Subject: 62 bus question- NVC
>
>
> > Happy Thanksgiving everyone! I'm killing the day planning my next VW
> project... I'm looking at a 62' bus to purchase and use for a daily
driver.
> I'm not real familiar with the air cooled vw's, especially old buses. The
> body is solid(from georgia), with a 1600 engine. The engine and trans are
> in fine working order. I am in NC so I don't care about lack of heat etc.
> I can do all the required work myself, but I really don't know what kind
of
> reliablilty I could expect from this vehicle. I plan to mechanically
> rebuild the bus, but keep the cost down by forgetting cosmetics for now.
> Any ideas /thoughts /information would be helpful. Thanks
> >
> > Matt
> >
>
