Date:         Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:37:39 -0800
Reply-To:     Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Temp II sensor followup
Comments: To: smorewhisky@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Better to Solder! Crimping on butt connectors is faster but creates a
resistance point which can change the value of the signal input to the ECU
once corrosion sets in.
Soldering or hard wiring is the best way to connect fuel injection harness
wiring.Helps to seal out moisture and dirt-better elecrtical continuity.This
was taught to me by a local VW tech (who just finished putting a 1.8 Turbo
from a 2001 Passat into a 82 Rabbit pick-up, even using the speedo cluster
from the same)
Hard wiring also brings the design back to factory specs-if your wiring is
good you can better troubleshoot the system.
I know a guy who crimp-connected the whole wiring harness for a 1-4
conversion he was doing. After the Vanagon was sold, I saw it at a VW shop
where the technicians had completely re-wired it the hardwired way.
Crimp-ons are good for emergency or 12 volt low-amp wiring. Fuel injection
ECU voltage and sensor voltage is 5 volts or less, resistance therefore has
a greater effect and crimping should be avoided.


Robert K
1982 Westfalia w/2.0 '95 Golf engine.

>From: s w <smorewhisky@yahoo.com>
>To: Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@HOTMAIL.COM>, vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Temp II sensor followup
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 06:20:35 -0800 (PST)
>
>i am needing to splice the wire leading to the temp II
>sensor as well, was wondering if you could use a crimp
>instead of soldering?although soldering does not look
>to be a great challenge, the crimps would make the job
>faster for sure. is it better to solder???
>--- Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > Hi Mike,
> > You asked:
> > <<Is there a better way to repair the bare spot than
> > tape?>>
> >
> > 1.Cut
> > 2.Strip 1/4" off each end. Slp 2" heat shrink tubing
> > far down one of the
> > ends.
> > 3. Twist both ends together.
> > 4. Solder the splice with rosin core solder
> > 5. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over the splice and
> > heat tubing evenly with
> > a match or lighter.
> > 6. The standard disclaimer applies to warn you not
> > to ignite anything in the
> > presence of spilled fuel or to set down your
> > soldering iron down on the fuel
> > rail.
> >
> > Robert K
> > 1982 Westfalia
> > Seattle
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
> > >Reply-To: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
> > >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > >Subject: Temp II sensor followup
> > >Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:59:33 -0800
> > >
> > >Hello list.
> > >
> > >Have an update and a question or two.
> > >
> > >My van did back things [detailed under Temp II
> > sensor].  I ordered the
> > >sensor from Ken and waited the 7 work days for it
> > to show.  It did, right
> > >on
> > >schedule, and I went to put it in the van.
> > >
> > >Checked Bentley and looked at the thermostat
> > housing area.  Hmmm. What's
> > >this, a connection loose?  That's right, when
> > checking it out on the road,
> > >at night, we had knocked the temp II connector off.
> >  Crud.
> > >
> > >But that didn't explain why it ran badly in the
> > first place so I looked
> > >underneath and there was a brown wire coming out of
> > a bundle sitting on the
> > >exhaust header, bare spot on wire.  oh, darn.
> > >
> > >Taped it up, runs great.
> > >
> > >Questions:
> > >
> > >Is there a better way to repair the bare spot than
> > tape?
> > >
> > >What's the best way to hold the bundle back from
> > the header [nothing much
> > >to
> > >tie to except radiator hose]
> > >
> > >Is it better to scream loudly, or is a low agonize
> > moan better?
> > >
> > >TIA
> > >
> > >Mike
> > >
> > >Thanks all for your help on this one, and all the
> > rest over the past few
> > >years.
> >
> >
> >
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