Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:31:45 -0500
Reply-To: jscohen@SPRYNET.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "James S. Cohen" <jscohen@SPRYNET.COM>
Subject: Re: Quick, cheap and easy headlight relay
Everyone,
While I'm the biggest proponent of using relays for the headlights, I have the
following comments on Tim's excellent instructions.
First, I have had problems with Bosch relays. I had 3 fail in 2 years which is why I
changed to Hella relays. I think they're more reliable, they're higher amperage,
and Hella is VWs choice for all their relays. They're hard to find though (which is
why I sell them). Hellas are twice the price of the Bosch but I think it's worth it
to not have to replace them every year or so, or have them fail on a dark and
lonely night in the middle of nowhere.
Also, I believe the wiring to the fuse box is already heavily burdened, so I
personally would run a heavy wire (10 or 12ga, I like overkill) directly from the
battery ESPECIALLY if I was using the SA Quad lights, or higher wattage bulbs
(which I personally think are a waste of money and inconsiderate to other
drivers, but others on the list disagree with me). Running a new wire takes more
work but I like the idea of a dedicated wire to carry the load to the lights.
But anyway, relays are the best way to go. You won't believe the difference in
light output!
James
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>>>>>>I recently installed a relay in the low beam side of headlight circuit. I
wanted something that was easy to install, didn't require any modification of
existing wiring and could be undone quickly. I installed this a month ago and have
been impressed with the increase in light output.
I set mine up so the headlight current bypasses the ignition and headlight switch
by going through a Bosch 30 amp relay. I found that had over 1/2 volt loss
between the fuse block supply and the output of the headlight switch. Now, I use
the low beam output of the headlight switch to control the operation of the
relay.
This is how I installed mine:
I disconnected the connector from terminal 57 of the headlight switch. This
connector should have a large and a small white wire with a black stripe crimped
in it. That connector gets plugged in to to the output (pin 30) of the new relay.
I made a small (4") 18 gauge jumper with female .250" connectors on each end.
One connector plugs into pin 57 on the headlight switch, the other connector
plugs into the control terminal (pin 85) of the relay.
I made a second small 18 gauge jumper with female .250" connectors on each
end. One connector plugs into the multiple ground connector behind the
fuseblock, the other connector plugs into the ground terminal (pin 86) of the
relay.
Lastly, I made a 12 gauge jumper about 18" long with female .250" spade
connector on each end. One connector plugs into the supply (Pin 87) of the
relay, while the other plugs into one of the "P" terminals on the back of the fuse
block. The fuse block connector has an insulated cover.
The relay itself is mounted to the fascia directly in front of the headlight switch
with a piece of double-sided tape.
A few notes:
VW uses a female spade connectors with a locking tab. You need to have
something to release the connector from the light switch socket. I use the end
of a small cable tie and trim the end to fit in the slot.
If you use a relay socket, the VW connector will lock inside of it. If you don't, you
need to insulate the connectors at the relay. I found some matching connectors
and crimped them on my jumpers so all of my connectors lock in the sockets.
The wiring path is stock from the relay to the headlights. I measured .1 volt drop
between the output side of the relay and the low beam fuses (24 & 25), so I left
the dimmer switch in the main current path.
I have about $6.00 into this including the relay, relay socket and locking spade
terminals.
I plan on installing a high beam relay also, but I really don't use them often
enough to make it worthwhile.
I had cleaned my headlights at the same time and found that after I installed
them and turned them on, condensation would form on the inside of the lens
after a couple of minutes. I figured that it was due to the humid Florida air
getting trapped inside the headlight when the bulbs are installed. I ended up
putting both headlight assemblies in the oven for 1/2 hour on low without the
bulbs in to dry them out. Then I removed them from the oven and installed the
bulbs quickly using a lubricant on the sealing surface. Problem solved.
Tim Hannink
Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition
Winter Park, Florida
http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/
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