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Date:   Sat, 15 Dec 2001 02:02:01 +0800
Reply-To:   Tim Hannink <tjhannink@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:   Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:   Tim Hannink <tjhannink@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:   Quick, cheap and easy headlight relay
Content-Type:   text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I recently installed a relay in the low beam side of headlight circuit. I wanted something that was easy to install, didn't require any modification of existing wiring and could be undone quickly. I installed this a month ago and have been impressed with the increase in light output.

I set mine up so the headlight current bypasses the ignition and headlight switch by going through a Bosch 30 amp relay. I found that had over 1/2 volt loss between the fuse block supply and the output of the headlight switch. Now, I use the low beam output of the headlight switch to control the operation of the relay.

This is how I installed mine: I disconnected the connector from terminal 57 of the headlight switch. This connector should have a large and a small white wire with a black stripe crimped in it. That connector gets plugged in to to the output (pin 30) of the new relay. I made a small (4") 18 gauge jumper with female .250" connectors on each end. One connector plugs into pin 57 on the headlight switch, the other connector plugs into the control terminal (pin 85) of the relay. I made a second small 18 gauge jumper with female .250" connectors on each end. One connector plugs into the multiple ground connector behind the fuseblock, the other connector plugs into the ground terminal (pin 86) of the relay. Lastly, I made a 12 gauge jumper about 18" long with female .250" spade connector on each end. One connector plugs into the supply (Pin 87) of the relay, while the other plugs into one of the "P" terminals on the back of the fuse block. The fuse block connector has an insulated cover. The relay itself is mounted to the fascia directly in front of the headlight switch with a piece of double-sided tape.

A few notes: VW uses a female spade connectors with a locking tab. You need to have something to release the connector from the light switch socket. I use the end of a small cable tie and trim the end to fit in the slot. If you use a relay socket, the VW connector will lock inside of it. If you don't, you need to insulate the connectors at the relay. I found some matching connectors and crimped them on my jumpers so all of my connectors lock in the sockets. The wiring path is stock from the relay to the headlights. I measured .1 volt drop between the output side of the relay and the low beam fuses (24 & 25), so I left the dimmer switch in the main current path.

I have about $6.00 into this including the relay, relay socket and locking spade terminals.

I plan on installing a high beam relay also, but I really don't use them often enough to make it worthwhile.

I had cleaned my headlights at the same time and found that after I installed them and turned them on, condensation would form on the inside of the lens after a couple of minutes. I figured that it was due to the humid Florida air getting trapped inside the headlight when the bulbs are installed. I ended up putting both headlight assemblies in the oven for 1/2 hour on low without the bulbs in to dry them out. Then I removed them from the oven and installed the bulbs quickly using a lubricant on the sealing surface. Problem solved.

Tim Hannink Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition Winter Park, Florida http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/

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