Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:38:41 -0800
Reply-To: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
Subject: Re: Quick, cheap and easy headlight relay
In-Reply-To: <Springmail.105.1008361905.0.60726300@springmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I [and by 'I', I mean my buddy who knows what he's doing did it while 'I'
watched] put in direct connection to the battery, separate lines and relays
to the high and low beams. Haven't tested it yet [by driving when I need
headlights] but this Sunday I will be doing it. Earlier 'I' [same deal] put
in driving lights as well. They work great but I wish I'd put in a floor
switch, reaching to the dash each time a car is on coming is slow and
unreliable.
Mike
> From: "James S. Cohen" <jscohen@SPRYNET.COM>
> Reply-To: jscohen@SPRYNET.COM
> Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:31:45 -0500
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Quick, cheap and easy headlight relay
>
> Everyone,
>
> While I'm the biggest proponent of using relays for the headlights, I have the
> following comments on Tim's excellent instructions.
>
> First, I have had problems with Bosch relays. I had 3 fail in 2 years which is
> why I
> changed to Hella relays. I think they're more reliable, they're higher
> amperage,
> and Hella is VWs choice for all their relays. They're hard to find though
> (which is
> why I sell them). Hellas are twice the price of the Bosch but I think it's
> worth it
> to not have to replace them every year or so, or have them fail on a dark and
> lonely night in the middle of nowhere.
>
> Also, I believe the wiring to the fuse box is already heavily burdened, so I
> personally would run a heavy wire (10 or 12ga, I like overkill) directly from
> the
> battery ESPECIALLY if I was using the SA Quad lights, or higher wattage bulbs
> (which I personally think are a waste of money and inconsiderate to other
> drivers, but others on the list disagree with me). Running a new wire takes
> more
> work but I like the idea of a dedicated wire to carry the load to the lights.
>
>
> But anyway, relays are the best way to go. You won't believe the difference in
> light output!
>
>
>
> James
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------------
>>>>>>> I recently installed a relay in the low beam side of headlight circuit.
>>>>>>> I
> wanted something that was easy to install, didn't require any modification of
> existing wiring and could be undone quickly. I installed this a month ago and
> have
> been impressed with the increase in light output.
>
> I set mine up so the headlight current bypasses the ignition and headlight
> switch
> by going through a Bosch 30 amp relay. I found that had over 1/2 volt loss
> between the fuse block supply and the output of the headlight switch. Now, I
> use
> the low beam output of the headlight switch to control the operation of the
> relay.
>
> This is how I installed mine:
> I disconnected the connector from terminal 57 of the headlight switch. This
> connector should have a large and a small white wire with a black stripe
> crimped
> in it. That connector gets plugged in to to the output (pin 30) of the new
> relay.
> I made a small (4") 18 gauge jumper with female .250" connectors on each end.
> One connector plugs into pin 57 on the headlight switch, the other connector
> plugs into the control terminal (pin 85) of the relay.
> I made a second small 18 gauge jumper with female .250" connectors on each
> end. One connector plugs into the multiple ground connector behind the
> fuseblock, the other connector plugs into the ground terminal (pin 86) of the
> relay.
> Lastly, I made a 12 gauge jumper about 18" long with female .250" spade
> connector on each end. One connector plugs into the supply (Pin 87) of the
> relay, while the other plugs into one of the "P" terminals on the back of the
> fuse
> block. The fuse block connector has an insulated cover.
> The relay itself is mounted to the fascia directly in front of the headlight
> switch
> with a piece of double-sided tape.
>
> A few notes:
> VW uses a female spade connectors with a locking tab. You need to have
> something to release the connector from the light switch socket. I use the end
> of a small cable tie and trim the end to fit in the slot.
> If you use a relay socket, the VW connector will lock inside of it. If you
> don't, you
> need to insulate the connectors at the relay. I found some matching connectors
> and crimped them on my jumpers so all of my connectors lock in the sockets.
> The wiring path is stock from the relay to the headlights. I measured .1 volt
> drop
> between the output side of the relay and the low beam fuses (24 & 25), so I
> left
> the dimmer switch in the main current path.
>
> I have about $6.00 into this including the relay, relay socket and locking
> spade
> terminals.
>
> I plan on installing a high beam relay also, but I really don't use them often
> enough to make it worthwhile.
>
> I had cleaned my headlights at the same time and found that after I installed
> them and turned them on, condensation would form on the inside of the lens
> after a couple of minutes. I figured that it was due to the humid Florida air
> getting trapped inside the headlight when the bulbs are installed. I ended up
> putting both headlight assemblies in the oven for 1/2 hour on low without the
> bulbs in to dry them out. Then I removed them from the oven and installed the
> bulbs quickly using a lubricant on the sealing surface. Problem solved.
>
> Tim Hannink
> Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition
> Winter Park, Florida
> http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/
>
> --
>
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