Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:57:14 -0800
Reply-To: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
Subject: FW: Saludos de Mexico!
In-Reply-To: <20011224183546.24282.cpmta@c003.snv.cp.net>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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From: Phaedra Savage <psavage@mexconnect.com>
Noche Buena
December 24, 2001
Saludos de Mexico!
I tossed the final duffle bag into my ’85 Westy on December 6th & pointed
due
south (my favorite heading) down the CA coast, steering for AZ & the
Mexican frontera. Fun began right off--with invitations to “pop my top”
at homes of
several sporting list members & their families en route.
First night out, Bill & Ali Caspar of Santa Cruz, CA (& endearing young son
Alexander, a Christopher Robin look alike) welcomed me with a delicious
dinner
of savory lentils & sausages, fresh hot bread, mustard greens & beer. Bill
showed
me one of the many saxophones in his collection &, just like “alto egos,” we
talked
jazz & saxophones. I really hit it off with Ali, too, who grew up in Italy
& had
amusing anecdotes re the process of learning to drive there. As they’re not
far from
my redwood hideout, I hope to see more of them!
Never one to miss a bash, Al Knoll (aka Pensioner) arrived in Santa Cruz in
his
syncro to join the festivities—bearing more brew pub beer—plus a tin of
Spanish
blood sausages to fatten my larder, & a dainty pair of Bushnell binocs to
loan for
my neophyte bird watching pleasure. Next morning, we swilled coffee while
inspecting one another’s vehicles, kicking tires till Bill & Ali finally had
to leave
for work.
Leo & Sondra Korkin put me up two days later in LA--& invited me along to a
big
Polish family birthday party. Leo *assured me we’d leave the party early,
owing to
my long drive next day. So, after a look at the Korkin’s collection of
beautiful art
glass & Leon’s astonishing custom cabinetry—his handiwork—we headed to the
home of relatives in the San Fernando Valley. Here, a gorgeous holiday
table for eighteen (or more!) sparkled before a roaring fireplace—& never
can I recall a more delicious repast or such a rousing, great good time.
Leon’s an engineer from the old Solviet Union & Sondra & her wonderful big
family
are from Poland. Sondra’s 80-some year old mother, just arrived from
Poland, was clearly the life of the party—drinking the men under the table &
singing a (sometimes bawdy) toast to each family member--including children
& grandchildren. Young &
old, everyone sang & danced with abandon. (Sondra & Leon translated for
me.) This family *really knows how to party! Leon kept his promise that
we’d leave the party early--& indeed we were accused of breaking up the
party when we left--at 3 AM!!!
Despite our “early” evening, however, I did *not manage an early escape.
After a yummy breakfast of lox & warm, fresh bagles, Leon led us on a short
bird watching expedition in a nearby park where, (despite a mild hangover) I
learned something of ruddy ducks & shovelers. Leon loaned me his own
volume of “Birds of Mexico” to accompany Pensioner’s loaner binocs.
Barry & Leslie Logan (& son Nicholas), high in the desert mountains east of
San Diego, were my third hosts. Barry’s a skilled Westy mechanic &
occasional
poster to the list.
Their roomy spread, nestled in a pretty valley of rocky outcroppings, trees,
scrub,
& little ranches, was a welcome respite after So Cal’s frenetic traffic.
Barry’s
recently acquired an ’85 weekender Westy nearly identical to mine. When I
arrived
at sundown, son Nicholas was already grilling chicken over the coals outside
while
Barry & Leslie poured red wine & whipped up guacamole, chile verde, salad,
beans
& rice. It was great to meet some of their friends, who shared this
veritable feast with
us. Barry & family have traveled much of the world, so we’d much to
share--including
a love of poetry & indigenous cultures. In a word, we were “muy simpatico”!
Today, Christmas eve, (Noche Buena) I write from a quiet little fishing
village a bit
north of Puerto Vallarta on Mexico’s Pacific coast. My Westy’s tucked among
palm trees & flowering hedges, along with a half dozen other small RV’s,
right on the ocean. I’ve a small cement patio, shade, water & electricity.
We share a breezy palapa on the beach, complete with tables & chairs. My
own hammock swings there--& mid day,
after a long, early-morning beach walk with my pooch, I swing contentedly in
my hammock with a good book, or join a game of poker or gin rummy.
(I travel with poker chips…ahem) Later, I thrash in the exuberant surf,
shower, then join others for the glorious sunset & a ritual dark rum with
lime over ice. Later, we walk five minutes into the village for a supper of
fresh shrimp, huachnango (red snapper), or chiles rellenos. Que rico!
Terry, one of my camp mates, is a retired VW mechanic who’s a recent
graduate
of the SF Culinary Academy. Terry & wife Jacqueline are throwing a
sumptuous
gourmet Christmas dinner for us all tomorrow under the palapa on the beach.
Complete with cloth napkins & candles! Vaya!
I’m happy to report that--except for my speedometer--which now performs
erratically
since LA, I’ve *no need thus far to consult our resident VW mechanic. As
luck might have it, any problems I might encounter would no doubt occur
*after I’ve left Terry’s
expertise miles behind! Asi es la vida--Such is life.
I’ll remain here until after New Year’s, afterward heading farther south to
a favorite snorkeling area. After that--quien sabe? Who knows?
One thing is sure: I’ll be heading upland, to the central highlands—but
where I will go, or what adventure choose, is a mystery for now. It’s hard
to go wrong. My neighbor’s bumper sticker says “No Bad Days.” So here’s to
that!
I’ll dispatch another report when I’m able & always enjoy hearing from list
friends. *Please: Remember to strip your emails to me of all superfluous
nonsense (!)—the web is slow here & computer time expensive.
Again, big thanks to the Caspars, Korkins, & Logans for their wonderful
hospitality--
& to Al Knoll (aka Pensioner) for his generous loan of binocs & the
Tarahumara book.
Wishing all of you a muy Feliz Navidad & Prospero Ano Nuevo!
Hasta luego, amigos & amigas--
Phaedra
’85 Westy “Basecamp”
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______________________________________________________
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