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Date:         Fri, 4 Jan 2002 23:16:37 +1200
Reply-To:     Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Subject:      Re: tiico conversion vs. other I4 conversions, ?GTI vanagon (long)
Comments: To: VW Caravelle <waw7447@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <F1660osA91E9GQvnbEG0001203c@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

>">I think that's 2.6 liter. Anyway, a SA VW dealer called Shelley's in >>Port Elizabeth offered me a plug-&-play kit at one stage. Engine, >>5-speed trans, computer etc ready to install & go. > >I would be interested to have the info, thanks.

Hi Azani

Shelleys VW: <shellven@mweb.co.za> 58 Newmarket St Woodstock South Africa They told me on 25-6-1999: "The most popular conversion for this model is to a Ford V6 3-liter, which is similar to your Commodore 3.8 conversion. We also modify gearboxes, as the 3rd and 4th gears are stripping. "What we can offer is to send you a complete kit with 5 cylinder Audi motor, 5 speed gearbox and complete electric loom. As for the grill with 4 lights and bottom full width seal grill, this can be organised. "The price involved {engine/trans kit} is approximately R22,000.00 and the shipping {to NZ} has been estimated at approximately R2,000.00."

The $NZ equals approximately Rand 3.3 to 4.0 and is currently worth about $0.42US. So that's about $3054US including shipping, @ the lower rate above. I don't know whether the boxer engine mount/crossmember would fit, probably needs modifying, likewise the lid.

>I had been searching around for a suitable van for a while and was >seriously looking at the Toyota Masterace but after I test drove >this Caravelle I was hooked as it is better in many respects >especially handling and roadholding.

You didn't look at the Hiace? The SWB-only Liteace-based Masterace is too short and narrow for lateral stability, especially under hard braking. It nosedives and can swerve suddenly. The Hiace suffers from none of these problems. And can be hotted-up too!

>I plan to improve it in areas i feel are not to my satisfaction. >Having driven it for 3-4 months now, I have firm ideas on what i >wish to do and would appreciate any advice!

Here's what I'm doing to my 84 Caravelle: power windows adapt Toytota power mirrors (not stock VW power units) remote central locking on all doors, with remote start/window closer; Porsche 993 brakes all round 16" CLK Mercedes wheels Hella Raintronic rainsensing autoadjust-intermittent wipe system (a la BMW) Koni dampers (Bilsteins seem to break on rough roads, according to listees) quality (Sony; the Alpine in our Estima is awfully flimsy, and has fallen apart!) fiberglass rally bucket seat for driver South African GTi-style grill and full-width ower grill tilt-adjust Corona steering column & wheel, switchgear Japanese door-armrests with window/locking switches Golf 2 instruments (220kmh/7000rpm) with translucent white faces, selectable colored LED backlighting (will modify all this myself), cluster with LCD clock Subaru SVX EG33 DOHC 3.3l six, 260hp Porsche/Getrag G50 transmission

On my wish-list: proximity sensors (from Toyota Estima/Previa) performance swaybars front & rear aircon power steering cruise control auto lights (Skyline, Corona, Honda Legend) larger taillights using LEDs (incorporating blue VW emblems!) autodip interior mirror enlarge fueltank or fit outrigger tanks under cargo-bay better interior lights (the 3 tiny factory units are pitiful) genuine gas-discharge headlights? add head-temp gauges? rear roof-spoiler with LED tail/brake/indicator lifght fiberglass bumpers with no spoiler (reduces ramp-angle for NZ's steep driveway entrances)

>1. The engine sounds good, has good torque but lacks outright power. >Having looked at various postings on the net to be frank I am >frightened that the engine can fail at any time! The Caravelle isnt >exactly common here and parts are difficult and when available >expensive. I fancied the Audi in line 5 as an alternative but all >the postings here seem to suggest that a Tiico conversion with a VW >I4 as the most sensible. In Malaysia, its easier to get hold off an >Audi I5 then a VW I4 secondhand. Does anyone do a COMPLETE Audi I5 >conversion kit? I am not looking for very fast top speeds but more >on snappy GTI like acceleration. Please advise me before I jump in!

Go Subaru power. Plentiful availability of Legacy/Impreza engines (DON'T buy exUSA or Australia... prices are frightening). Smooth Ultrareliable. Parts plentiful, probably even in SE Asia. Fits like it's made for the VW. It's a boxer. And... how much power do you want? The Impreza WRX STi Type RA in Japan put out 280PS, which is probvably more than 290hp... and Subaru was probably understating this for legal reasons (power restrictions in the home market, only now being openly flaunted). Full range of engines fromn the EJ16 1.6, EJ18 1.8, EJ20 2.0 in varoius power levels (including turbo & twin-turbo), EJ22 2.2, EH25 2.5 fours and EG33 3.3 six. Avoid all engines previous to 1998, as they crack heads, overheat etc. Prices in NZ: a good EG20 turbo costs about $630US; the EG33 goes for up to $1050US. A 34000km-old Type RA EJ20 as listed above was offered to me by a Japanese dealer for about $1512US including shipping. Use a KEP kit to fit it (about $580US for adaptor plate and flywheel). Use an NZ-made Link Electrosystems engine-management system (optional tuning on the move via a dash-mounter remote) for about $360US; this replaces all of the complex Subaru wiring & electronics except the ignitor. NZ has a 12.5% GST, but this should not be charged on export sales.

Transmission: the VW trans is not that strong and is low-geared. This is why I'm fitting a G50. I bought a G50 (DM2700) with its entire gearshift mechanism (cockpit to trans, DM450), complete used clutch (DM1100), starter (DM280)... and they not only included a free set of axles with 4 CV joints, they also accidentally sent an LSD G50/50 Turbo trans! Total of DM6240 including 16% VAT (which they weill refund) ands shipping; this is about $2880US. You NEED the shifter from the same car as the trans, as the VW shifter won't work; the 911 unit has to be fitted into the cockpit floor. They are: Sportswagenservice Jacobi in Germany: Martin Jacubowski <Ria_und_Jaku@t-online.de> or Peter Jacobi <jacobi@911-parts.de>. You'd also need 930-pattern rear stubaxles from Weddle in USA to fit the 930 CVs, as the bolt-pattern is 118mm diameter instead of VW's 100.

>2. I note that fast german auto stocks a Bilstein shock and damper >kit. Is this the best to go for? Anyone aware of any alternatives. >Again, aim is to try and get a GTI like handling van!....if possible.

See Konis above. Bilsteins break off at the upper mounting point. Shock is a misnomer for damper. The actual shock-absorbers are actually the springs. The dampers absorb not shocks but spring oscillations.

>3. This van has no power steering. Anyone in countries with RHD >vehicles know where I can get a second hand COMPLETE system to >convert my van i.e pump, hoses, rack, etc.??? This is a high >priority and I would appreciate help here.

Parts Plus/Brookvale Spares, Sydney, Australia (fax: ++64 (2) 9938-3331complete PS $950 AUS Beetle Spares, Sydney (fax: ++61 (2) 9771-4831) on 14-7-1999 complete PS setup for $1200AUS. Beware, the tierod length is longer an PS vehicles, so you MAY need PS stubaxles too. Ben Tan has investigated this. Also remind them not to charge you GST for an export sale.

>4. The water temp guage and clock are kaput. I would like to install >a rev counter instead. Can anyone help me source the necessary? I >also need the column switches for indicators and wiper as well as >the plastic shroud for the steering column. The ones on mine were >replaced at some point with Golf items ( I think).

Ask Ron Salmon at Bus Depot, USA. He was selling complete clusters, including METRIC speedo, tacho & LCD clock, for $129.9 US including shipping, some time ago. I bought one. Ask him to pack it with LOTS OF NEWSPAPER or it'll arrive rattling in the box! Fit a Japanese (or Proton-Mitsubishi) steering column, then you'll have no more throwaway VW switchgear.

>5. The brakes arent exactly confidence inspiring even after I >replaced the servo unit (leaking), pads, shoes and rear drums. >Anyone has any experience on brake upgrades? I spotted three kits on >the net from Fast Forward, Vanagain and MSDS with varying prices and >would appreciate hearing from anyone with experience on these >conversions.

Hansen Motorsport in Germany makes kits to fit any Porsche disc to the front. I'm going to go for the 993 brake kit (buy the brakes secondhand exUSA for $800US or less for all 4 discs) and the fitting kit from Hansen at about DM1300. He's working on a rear-disc kit. The 993 is the only Porsche which uses VW's 112x5 stud-pattern. Use Mercedes alloy wheels; the 993 brakes (last of the aircooled 911s) are 5mm diameter too big for Mercedes 16" CLK alloys, so either skim the overengineered wheels for clearance or order a custom caliper mount and have the front discs narrowed by 5mm diameter (2.4mm radius). contact Jens Hansen: <Jens.Hansen@Hansen-Motorsport.de>. He's happy to converse, very helpful. DON'T touch the rear-disk kit made by John Sherman (Volks Conversions) in ustralia, as they are dangerously flimsy and crude.

Shipping costs to Malaysia would be equivalent to the costs to NZ, I'd think.

-- Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand <andrew.grebneff@stonebow.otago.ac.nz> Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut Friends don't let friends do Windows


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