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Date:         Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:52:50 +1200
Reply-To:     Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Subject:      Re: tiico conversion vs. other I4 conversions, ?GTI vanagon (long)
Comments: To: VW Caravelle <waw7447@hotmail.com>
Comments: cc: subaruvanagon@yahoogroups.com
In-Reply-To:  <F111RzLQ9pToZIHHRAO0001327b@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

Hi Azani

I'm posting this to the vanagon.com and subaruvanagon lists, as some in the former may be interested, and some in the latter may offer suggestions.

>Thanks for the reply! Much appreciated. Got a few points to clarify..

You're welcome!

>"larger taillights using LEDs (incorporating blue VW emblems!)" >...where are you going to source these from? Would be interested to >get some!

Actually I was thinking of MAKING them. Nobody will be making such lights... though if enough interest was expressed to US or German VW aftermarket manufacturers, they might go for the idea. I'm not sure how I'd go about doing it, and haven't done much research into the needed materials (except to see what LEDs are available to suit converting the instruments to backlighting). I would not want to cut (or drill) the bodywork to make room for bigger lights, so the lights would need to be shallow enough to fit over the existing sheetmetal. Smoked but otherwise uncolored flat acrylic might be good for the lenses (need high-output LEDs to be clearly visible through this in bright daylight... safety must not be sacrificed, as it usually is with smoked lights), and a glue which will premanently bond acrylic. The lens, fabricated from 5 pieces of acrylic (face plus 4 strips for edges) would be just deep enough to allow the LED's light to diffuse, so each LED is not clearly visible when the light is on. I don't know how I'd go about breaking the light up inside the lens... of course factory lights have a pattern of pyramids molded into the inner surface of the lens. Backing plate... some strong stable black plastic, shaped correctly, driled to fit the stock mounting screw pattern, and drilled for insertion of the LEDs and for the lens screws. Silicone RTV to seal the lens to the backing plate. I would have to source reflectorized red plastic for reflectors (cannibalize some other flat taillights perhaps), and the reflectors need not actually be incorporated into the lights themselves. LEDs themselves... expensive in the number needed (lots) of hi-intensity 12V units, packed in so that they are in contact with one another (nothing looks as crude as separate dots of light); orange for indicator, red for tail, perhaps a different shade of red (if available) for brake. Blue for VW emblem; will give an overall purple cast to the light (as in hotrods with Blue Dots inserted in their lights). The thing with the LEDs is that the brake and taillight LEDs need not be installed in separate areas, but can be alternated across the entire red area, giving maximum area for both types. White LEDs for reversing lights, with some sort of focusing lens. Even build-in a warning white light focused at following cars, so you can flash them at drivers sitting behind you with high beam on!

Your van probably already has the Carat black fill-panel between the taillights; mine doesn't. If doing these lights, I'd fabricate a black fiberglass fill-panel to suit; this could incorporate white LED licenseplate lights (need perhaps 2 LEDs), getting rid of the poor-quality factory lights.

I can't even THINK seriously aouty these items until my van, in storage in another city, is back with me. Whenever THAT might be.

Front indicators could get the same treatment, but fitting orange LEDs into the stock light.

>Actually I looked at the Subaru option on the net but discounted it >as it seemed to complicated, particularly the wiring. The engines >arent exactly common here in Malaysia, the older Subaru 1.6 and 1.8s >from the mid-80s were available but not the later models. Your >comments have made me want to examine this option a lot closer.

There is a Subaruvanagon Yahoo free list (abbreviated SV hereafter) too, a source of much info; check <www. yahoogroups.com> and join up. Everyone who has done the swap is very happy with it. Import an EG or EJ engine. There are lots here, or I can give you contact e-mail addresses or fax #s for Japanese exporters. The Link computer removes the wiring complications; overall cost may be less than having an autoelectrician work out the Subaru wiring! I have put several US listees in contact with the NZ South Island Link distributor.

>"Use a KEP kit to fit it (about $580US for adaptor plate and >flywheel)"...Do I need anything else???

I think the stock VW starter will turn any Subaru engine without problems... mine turned a healthy 3.8 Holden V6 quickly. You'd need to fabricate an engine crossmember and fit stiffer engine mount rubber. If using a single-turbo engine you'd need to cut and reweld (or fabricate) the inlet tract, as it apparently will hit the clutch slave mechanism. Don't know about the 280hp Legacy twin-turbo setups. Modify throttle linkage (SV list help here). What else is there that am I forgetting?

>"Use an NZ-made Link Electrosystems engine-management system >(optional tuning on the move via a dash-mounter remote) for about >$360US; this replaces all of the complex Subaru wiring & electronics >except the ignitor. NZ has a 12.5% GST, but this should not be >charged on export sales."....How do I get a hold of this??

The Link computer removes the wiring complications; overall cost may be less than having an autoelectrician work out the Subaru wiring! I have put several US listees in contact with the NZ South Island Link distributor Neville Stowell in Timaru: <engine-performance@xtra.co.nz>. He knows Subarus inside-out too. He will eventually be the one doing my entire conversion.

>"See Konis above. Bilsteins break off at the upper mounting >point"...any idea who stocks the Konis?

I have a set ready to install. They are at work, so I'd have to check the part numbers there on Monday. I can't find where I'd written them down. They are available here, and a set would cost in the order of $420US... I could find out for you. I bought mine from Germany, but only because I could get them in the same shipment as the G50 trans; the Porsche wrecker sourced them for me. They might be cheaper in USA, I'm not sure. Listees?

>And where can I get a suitably matched set of lowered springs?

I suspect the US aftermarket springs such as H&R MAY be (I can't be sure) only as stiff as nonUS-market stock springs, as most imports to USA are sold with much softer suspensions (springs, swaybars, dampers). Genuine performance suspensions are available in Germany, but I don't know where to go myself to find out about them!

>"Fit a Japanese (or Proton-Mitsubishi) steering column, then you'll >have no more throwaway VW switchgear.".....which Proton model would >fit? What modifications would be necessary?

Not a Saga! Anything should be adaptable; Satria maybe? There would need to be mounts made to bolt the column in; an adaptor splined extension to couple to the VW flexible joint at cockpit floor-level; adaptor wiring made so the column wiring can be plugged into the VW loom without hacking either stock loom up. You'd want to set the mounting position VERY carefully, so that the wheel is where you will be comfortable and where you can see the instruments when you are sitting correctly; ensure there is tilt-adjustment both ways from this position. You could make slotted fore-aft mounts so that there is extra tiltability, and even slot it for lenthwise up/down movement (reach). If doing this you would NEED power steer, or the smaller wheel will make the steering far too heavy (as if it isn't already).

>The brake conversion you suggested sounds awfully complicated! >Porsche parts here cost a HUGE fortune!

Buy from Germany, Holland or USA. I can give you contact addresses of wreckers. As I say, I was quoted about $800US for a full set of all 4 993 brakes from an LA dealer, and Ben Tan says this is a midrange price, that is, some dealers will charge less. I'd say that's not bad! germans ought to be cheaper. Hansen will sell you a kit only (or can make custom brakes), or a complete bolt-on kit using all-new Porsche brakes, but that IS expensive. Ask him.

>I am enclosing a pic of my Caravelle.

Nice beast. Where was it made or originally sold new? I have seen an old aircooled T3 here with the same upper grill. Is this the original South African 4-light grill? The current one is very different, with an all-flat surface and wide crossbars, made of very thin flexible plastic.

You're welcome. Feel free to correspond further!

Regards Andrew


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