Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:45:49 -0800
Reply-To: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: 2500 mile Baja trip report, long
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My wife and I just returned from a trip down Baja to the cape and back
up the east side. Our 87 Syncro Camper ran great and we had a good time
exploring. Normally we would tow a small boat but this time we wanted
the freedom to explore some remote areas that we have been meaning to
see for a while. We focused on finding beach camping areas where we
could do our own thing without too many other people around. This turned
out to be harder than we expected, at least in the areas within 100
miles of Cabo San Lucas. This area is more populated and developed than
we imagined and has changed quite a bit since our last cape visit 8
years ago.
The effects of the big hurricane in September are still evident as the
roads are still being repaired in spots but the heavy rains have also
brought the desert to life. Seeing the sometimes barren deserts looking
more like green jungles was a real treat. The natural wonders seen
included a spectacular afternoon of unplanned whale watching from a
bluff above a Pacific beach just south of Todos Santos. While setting up
camp I spotted a whale spouting off shore and then we sat down with our
binos to get a better look. We located first 1, then 2, then 3, etc.
Suddenly, right almost at the shore line a large whale breached head
first out of the water and did a slow roll in the air before splashing
back into the sea. We were stunned. Then it did it again and again. I
rushed over to another couple camped nearby to make sure they didn't
miss it. We all stood awestruck for a long time as this whale just kept
leaping into the air time after time, resting after every half dozen or
so efforts. This and other whale antics continued against a backdrop of
a setting sun until it was too dark to watch. Awesome.
On the other side of the cape we spent several days in the Los Barriles
area, known as a mecca for windsurfers. Here we explored some new areas
and put the Syncro to the test on some poor "roads" out to remote spots.
Another marine display was taking place here as schools of manta rays
were leaping in unison and slapping down against the water on their
backs. We have seen this ray behavior many times from our boat but never
in schools and close to shore. At night when there was no wind the sound
of this carried quite a distance and sounded unreal for a natural
phenomenon.
We found that some dirt roads on the map no longer went through since
the hurricane. One of these we learned the hard way after 1.5 hours of
rough travel in 1st and 2nd gear only to have to retrace our steps all
the way back. In spots this road crossed 100s of yards of deep sand and
in other spots it was cut into the cliffs above the sea. We needed
granny gear and the rear locker several times when the rough going
forced me to stop or slow way down. Finally, in one very narrow cliff
section rock slides blocked too much of the track for us to continue and
we had to back up until we came to a wide spot. With another vehicle
along I would have been tempted to try to clear a path as this was the
most spectacular areas we had found. Another time perhaps.
We had many new experiences and I had to replace my fuel filter in La
Paz as the Camper started hesitating under load. Fortunately I had one
with me as I had no luck locating another, even at the VW dealer there.
It seems they only carry parts for models sold new in Mexico and
Vanagons with 5 cylinder engines are out on both counts. An independent
VW parts store had a Jetta one that would work but it was not quite the
right outside diameter for my bracket so I passed on it and made it the
rest of the way without further trouble. I will carry 2 from now on.
Along the way we saw many other Vanagons of all years and quite a few
Westys. There is a growing presence of Vanagons with Mexican plates and
even a few Westys were owned by the locals. This was unheard of a few
years ago but loafs were and are pretty common. Most of the Westys we
saw were from colder places like BC, Idaho, Washington, Oregon, and
several even from Alaska. Man, that's gotta be a long drive.
Mark Drillock
