Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 17:23:42 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: `Cont'd: After 3000 mi trip: 84h2o overheating,
grinding gears(manual trans
In-Reply-To: <B877C81E.EF0%choreboy@cnmnetwork.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Part of your problem may be the missing thermostat. The T-stat is
actually a mixing valve. Coolant t always flows around the engine. When
the thermostat opens, the disk on the bottom closes off the bypass.
Without this closure, the coolant will not be forced up to the radiator.
As for the radiator. Remove the two hoses and look up with a strong
light. If the tubes are clogging, it will be obvious. Anther point of
failure is a cracked housing, internally. If the housing is cracked
inside, then the coolant will flow in and out without actually passing
through the core.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Matthias Kuster
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 5:43 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: `Cont'd: After 3000 mi trip: 84h2o overheating, grinding
gears(manual trans
Hi, Class:)
So: Overheating problem:
I replaced the water pump, checked the thermostat on my stove in a pan,
and
it works fine, still left it out, though. My heater hoses and the
radiator
inlet hose (bottom of two fat ones on top of engine bay) do get warm,
especially the heater hoses. I removed both radiator hoses in the engine
bay(those two thick ones), and I do get water coming from the engine
side on
the lower one (rad inlet?), but nothing returning , or coming out, of
the
top one, no air, hardly any water, just a little water dripping. I
disconnected the hoses right after the plastic bleeder. The hose from
the
thermostat housing up to that bleeder valve is getting warm, too, but
not as
warm as the heater hoses. Now: Even with the back of the van 1 foot
raised,
I do not get any water at the radiator bleeder screw, and the hoses
leading
up to the radiator don't get warm, at least not before the van
overheats.
It's gotta be the radiator is bad, right?? Recommendations on flushing
vs.
replacing??
And then: Gear shift problem
I am unable to shift the trransmission into 1st and reverse without
severe
grinding, 1st gear a little easier, both while the engine runs and
clutch is
depressed. Could it be my clutch is not disengaging completely?? I felt
a
lot more play in the pedal, then did this:
I checked the fluid in the master cylinder: All kosher, right at the max
mark. Then I went about bleeding at the slave cylinder bleed screw on
top of
transmission. I did this with a Mity Vac, and I seemed to be getting a
lot
of air bubbles, and very little fluid. ?. I think the Mity Vac way isn't
all
that, even with the right adapter, and I need to bestow some passive
aggressiveness on my buddy to help me do it old school. Until then.
But: I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch of times, with the bleeder screw
open
and a hose attached to it with a little jar. I pumped and pumped, but
there
was hardly any brake fluid coming out of the bleed screw. And the level
in
the reservoir did not go down, not a hair's breadth. Fishy, I'm
thinking.
You guys think I should replace the master and slave cyls? Slave cyl is
about 11/2 yrs old. Do I need a trans rebuild, or just the proper
Redline
lubricant?
I did a compression test on her and replaced the spark plugs: 165-175
psi
all around. How much life can I expext out of this engine? It still
feels
strong.
As I am going to order the radiator on Monday, I am wondering if new
master
and slave cylinders are up for replacement, too. Or new
transmission(duh).
The transmission was fine until it overheated and the clutch started
feeling
like it had more play.
Gee, thanks for reading.
Cheers
Matthias in L.A.
1984 WBX 1.9Man
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