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Date:         Sun, 27 Jan 2002 19:10:21 -0500
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: `Cont'd:  After 3000 mi trip: 84h2o overheating,
              grinding gears(manual trans
Comments: To: Matthias Kuster <choreboy@CNMNETWORK.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <B879D488.FD6%choreboy@cnmnetwork.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

The common failure is for the combustion gasses to leak into the cooling system. This is caused either by corrosion or some other failure of the seals between the cylinder heads and the cylinders. If the engine has overheated a few times, then this failure is eminent anyway. To test for this leak-down test should be performed. The coolant system can also be checked d for the presence of hydrocarbons. Make sure the pressure cap is good. If you see air bubbles coming through the expansion tank while the engine is running or being accelerated, then you have the dreaded internal head seal leak.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Matthias Kuster Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2002 7:00 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: `Cont'd: After 3000 mi trip: 84h2o overheating, grinding gears(manual trans

Could someone tell me if this might be the aluminum head gasket problem. I don't have any water or oil leaks from the gaskets, but some guy I met today (not on the list) who has a Westy (1986) told me that might be the problem. He says that it's possible all my coolant leaks into the heads if the aluminum deteriorated from using the wrong coolant. But wouldn't it end up in the oil, then, and cause mayonnaise on the fill cap?? I just did an oil change, too (after it overheated) and didn't see any sign of contaminated engine oil. My radiator doesn't get warm at all, not even where the hoses connect to the rad. Doubtful that's just because I left the thermostat out for now. I'll take out the fan thermo switch this week and check for deposits, do the flashlight thing, etc.

Tooraloo

>Hi, Class:) > >So: Overheating problem: > >I replaced the water pump, checked the thermostat on my stove in a pan, and >it works fine, still left it out, though. My heater hoses and the radiator >inlet hose (bottom of two fat ones on top of engine bay) do get warm, >especially the heater hoses. I removed both radiator hoses in the engine >bay(those two thick ones), and I do get water coming from the engine side on >the lower one (rad inlet?), but nothing returning , or coming out, of the >top one, no air, hardly any water, just a little water dripping. I >disconnected the hoses right after the plastic bleeder. The hose from the >thermostat housing up to that bleeder valve is getting warm, too, but not as >warm as the heater hoses. Now: Even with the back of the van 1 foot raised, >I do not get any water at the radiator bleeder screw, and the hoses leading >up to the radiator don't get warm, at least not before the van overheats. >It's gotta be the radiator is bad, right?? Recommendations on flushing vs. >replacing?? > >And then: Gear shift problem > >I am unable to shift the trransmission into 1st and reverse without severe >grinding, 1st gear a little easier, both while the engine runs and clutch is >depressed. Could it be my clutch is not disengaging completely?? I felt a >lot more play in the pedal, then did this: >I checked the fluid in the master cylinder: All kosher, right at the max >mark. Then I went about bleeding at the slave cylinder bleed screw on top of >transmission. I did this with a Mity Vac, and I seemed to be getting a lot >of air bubbles, and very little fluid. ?. I think the Mity Vac way isn't all >that, even with the right adapter, and I need to bestow some passive >aggressiveness on my buddy to help me do it old school. Until then. >But: I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch of times, with the bleeder screw open >and a hose attached to it with a little jar. I pumped and pumped, but there >was hardly any brake fluid coming out of the bleed screw. And the level in >the reservoir did not go down, not a hair's breadth. Fishy, I'm thinking. > >You guys think I should replace the master and slave cyls? Slave cyl is >about 11/2 yrs old. Do I need a trans rebuild, or just the proper Redline >lubricant? >I did a compression test on her and replaced the spark plugs: 165-175 psi >all around. How much life can I expext out of this engine? It still feels >strong. > >As I am going to order the radiator on Monday, I am wondering if new master >and slave cylinders are up for replacement, too. Or new transmission(duh). >The transmission was fine until it overheated and the clutch started feeling >like it had more play. > >Gee, thanks for reading. > >Cheers > >Matthias in L.A. >1984 WBX 1.9Man >-- Matthias Kuster, L.A. CA-- 1984 WBX 1.9 Wolfy Manual


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