Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 19:10:21 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: `Cont'd: After 3000 mi trip: 84h2o overheating,
grinding gears(manual trans
In-Reply-To: <B879D488.FD6%choreboy@cnmnetwork.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
The common failure is for the combustion gasses to leak into the cooling
system. This is caused either by corrosion or some other failure of the
seals between the cylinder heads and the cylinders. If the engine has
overheated a few times, then this failure is eminent anyway. To test for
this leak-down test should be performed. The coolant system can also be
checked d for the presence of hydrocarbons. Make sure the pressure cap
is good. If you see air bubbles coming through the expansion tank while
the engine is running or being accelerated, then you have the dreaded
internal head seal leak.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Matthias Kuster
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2002 7:00 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: `Cont'd: After 3000 mi trip: 84h2o overheating, grinding
gears(manual trans
Could someone tell me if this might be the aluminum head gasket problem.
I
don't have any water or oil leaks from the gaskets, but some guy I met
today
(not on the list) who has a Westy (1986) told me that might be the
problem.
He says that it's possible all my coolant leaks into the heads if the
aluminum deteriorated from using the wrong coolant. But wouldn't it end
up
in the oil, then, and cause mayonnaise on the fill cap?? I just did an
oil
change, too (after it overheated) and didn't see any sign of
contaminated
engine oil.
My radiator doesn't get warm at all, not even where the hoses connect to
the
rad. Doubtful that's just because I left the thermostat out for now.
I'll
take out the fan thermo switch this week and check for deposits, do the
flashlight thing, etc.
Tooraloo
>Hi, Class:)
>
>So: Overheating problem:
>
>I replaced the water pump, checked the thermostat on my stove in a pan,
and
>it works fine, still left it out, though. My heater hoses and the
radiator
>inlet hose (bottom of two fat ones on top of engine bay) do get warm,
>especially the heater hoses. I removed both radiator hoses in the
engine
>bay(those two thick ones), and I do get water coming from the engine
side on
>the lower one (rad inlet?), but nothing returning , or coming out, of
the
>top one, no air, hardly any water, just a little water dripping. I
>disconnected the hoses right after the plastic bleeder. The hose from
the
>thermostat housing up to that bleeder valve is getting warm, too, but
not as
>warm as the heater hoses. Now: Even with the back of the van 1 foot
raised,
>I do not get any water at the radiator bleeder screw, and the hoses
leading
>up to the radiator don't get warm, at least not before the van
overheats.
>It's gotta be the radiator is bad, right?? Recommendations on flushing
vs.
>replacing??
>
>And then: Gear shift problem
>
>I am unable to shift the trransmission into 1st and reverse without
severe
>grinding, 1st gear a little easier, both while the engine runs and
clutch is
>depressed. Could it be my clutch is not disengaging completely?? I felt
a
>lot more play in the pedal, then did this:
>I checked the fluid in the master cylinder: All kosher, right at the
max
>mark. Then I went about bleeding at the slave cylinder bleed screw on
top of
>transmission. I did this with a Mity Vac, and I seemed to be getting a
lot
>of air bubbles, and very little fluid. ?. I think the Mity Vac way
isn't all
>that, even with the right adapter, and I need to bestow some passive
>aggressiveness on my buddy to help me do it old school. Until then.
>But: I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch of times, with the bleeder screw
open
>and a hose attached to it with a little jar. I pumped and pumped, but
there
>was hardly any brake fluid coming out of the bleed screw. And the level
in
>the reservoir did not go down, not a hair's breadth. Fishy, I'm
thinking.
>
>You guys think I should replace the master and slave cyls? Slave cyl is
>about 11/2 yrs old. Do I need a trans rebuild, or just the proper
Redline
>lubricant?
>I did a compression test on her and replaced the spark plugs: 165-175
psi
>all around. How much life can I expext out of this engine? It still
feels
>strong.
>
>As I am going to order the radiator on Monday, I am wondering if new
master
>and slave cylinders are up for replacement, too. Or new
transmission(duh).
>The transmission was fine until it overheated and the clutch started
feeling
>like it had more play.
>
>Gee, thanks for reading.
>
>Cheers
>
>Matthias in L.A.
>1984 WBX 1.9Man
>--
Matthias Kuster, L.A. CA--
1984 WBX 1.9 Wolfy Manual
|