Date:         Sat, 2 Mar 2002 00:06:17 -1000
Reply-To:     Mick Kalber <redhotlava@HAWAII.RR.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mick Kalber <redhotlava@HAWAII.RR.COM>
Subject:      dino/synthetic blend
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

On the switching to synthetic topic, when I bought my 89 syncro westy a
couple years ago, she had less the 40K original miles on her.  I can only
assume that dino had been run in her since day one.  Soon after I got her I
replaced the dino with full synthetic.  She ran smooth as silk and didn't
leak.  But she started to use more oil.  Enough that I eventually went to a
Castrol synthetic/dino blend.  Use was reduced considerably and she still
runs smoothly.  I liked using the straight synthetic better, but I sure
didn't like buying that expensive stuff so often.  How many of you guys use
the blend?  Do you like it?

Mick Kalber
89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo"
Tropical Visions Video, Inc.
62 Halaulani Place
Hilo, Hawaii 96720
808-935-5557
808-935-0066 (fax)
redhotlava@hawaii.rr.com
http://www.volcanoscapes.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: Bradley Flubacher <flub@ADELPHIA.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: Gradual switch to synthetic oil?


> Uh-oh, here comes the debate again.  It was interesting for me to hear a
> short while back on this list that some people are apposed to using an
> engine flush.  Their thoughts included the notion that losening up
particals
> can cause damage when they get stuck somewhere else.
>
> I've run engine flushes through an Acura Integra with 260,000km, the '84
> with 209,000 miles, and also my rabbit with 262,000 miles.  I've
eperienced
> no adverse results from any flushes.
>
> I flushed the '84 before switching to amsoil 15w40 synthetic.  I ran it
only
> for a short while before I had to replace pushrod tubs because of leaky
> seals.   I'm back on petrolium oil for the time being, but I intend to
> switch back to either amsoil or mobile 1. That engine has been dry
> underneath for a long while.
>
> I'm running natural oil in the rabbit. I just started the job of replacing
> the head gasket. After that's done, I may switch to a synthetic in it if
the
> gasket takes care all the oil leaks. I've got a lot of cleaning to do.
>
> I'm just starting the break-in period on my '82 westy. I have about 800
> miles on the rebuild. This is the first engine I've rebuilt, and it's
> running pretty good.  I'm a bit concerned about a sign of oil seapage from
> the head gasket.  I'm going to complete the head-bolt torquing procedure
> very soon. I hope that cures the seapage.  I've subscribed to the notion
> that to break in an engine, you shouldn't be a pussy with it.  I'm
wondering
> if maybe I ran it too hard at some point.  I'm probably either
overreacting,
> or I'll be doing another head gasket before I intended. I spaced out for a
> minute while torquing those head bolts. I thought I might have missed a
step
> on one of the bolts..  bad. The funny thoughts that run through your mind
> while humming along.
>
> Bradley Flubacher
> State College, PA
> '81 diesel rabbit
> '82 diesel westy
> '82 diesel van
> '84 GL wasserboxer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
> Of developtrust
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 6:46 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Gradual switch to synthetic oil?
>
>
> I recall on the synthetic oil thread a while back that it is advisable to
do
> an engine flush first to clean it out like for example to remove one quart
> of oil and add one quart of Marvel Mystery oil and run it for about 300
> miles then change filter and oil. This is what I did and it seems to be
> working OK.
>
> In my case I did the 5 minute engine flush first with Gunk Engine flush
then
> ran Marvel for 300 miles with new oil before I switched to synthetic. If
you
> do the engine flush just follow directions on the can.
>
> If you do a flush follow Stan Wilder's advice and filter the oil using a
> white coffee filter after it settles to see what crud came out and/or use
a
> magnet to see if any metal is in the residue. Filter only the last 1/2 cup
> of oil dregs after mixing 50/50 with gasoline. Remember to capture the oil
> in a clean can to get pure results. Do the filter thing with the 5 minute
> flush and also with the marvel oil run.
>
> William Polowniak
> 1989 Vanagon GL
> 1988 Mercedes 300 SE
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Aldrich" <daldrich@EARTHLINK.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Gradual switch to synthetic oil?
>
>
> > The other issue as I understand it is synthetic's superior detergent
> properties. On an older engine, switching to synthetic can break down
> deposits in the engine, clogging the oil filter causing loss of the engine
> in a short time due to oil starvation.
> >
> > -d
> >
> > At 06:25 PM 2/28/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > >I agree now is the time. The problem as I understand it is when you
start
> > >when your seals are old and hard. Your seals are new and your
clearences
> ore
> > >good so go for it.
> > >
> > >Joe
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Max Wellhouse" <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
> > >To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > >Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 1:52 PM
> > >Subject: Gradual switch to synthetic oil?
> > >
> > >
> > >> Anyone thought of dealing with the perceived notion of switching to
> > >> synthetic oil by first going to a "blend" oil for a couple of oil
> changes
> > >> and then going to the full synthetic?  Keeping in mind that staying
> with
> > >> the same manufacturer might be a good idea.
> > >>
> > >> All input welcome.  Have almost 9k on the Boston Bob rebuild and if
I'm
> > >> going to switch, I guess now would be time time.