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Date:         Sat, 2 Mar 2002 21:27:31 +0100
Reply-To:     Robert Steven Fish <fish@SALZBURG.CO.AT>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Steven Fish <fish@SALZBURG.CO.AT>
Subject:      Re: Relaying Headlights
Comments: To: Gary Stearns <gstearns@optonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks for the reply!

I appreciate your explanation... we are on the same page here, as the white/black wire heading to 56a on the bulb, is the same wire you are speaking of... so it should work fine with the blue high beam indicator. thanks.

The main reason I asked in the first place was because I saw a posting on how to do this upgrade, purely at the steering column, using the wires off the high/low beam dimmer switch to close the relays, and not cutting any other wires.

I took that as a starting place, and then drew up my own diagram whereby I also replaced the wiring to the bulbs... and when I looked, there was indeed a problem with the blue indicator, on my new diagram.

Anyway... problem solved. I will take a stab at this project as soon as we get another nice warm afternoon here.

RSF

<º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{

Robert S. Fish Salzburg, Austria 1987 Wolfsburg Vanagon 2.1 GL Weekender 1987 Golf Cabriolet 1991 Golf

----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Stearns" <gstearns@optonline.net> To: "Robert Steven Fish" <fish@salzburg.co.at> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 2:11 PM Subject: Re: Re: Relaying Headlights

> The two sources of juice are nearly the same. In my Vanagon, I tapped off > of the pos. battery terminal since the alternator is too far away, in my > Jetta I used the alternator as the source because it's available. Either is > fine. > > Regarding the "signal" for the relays, I fed the pos. wire from the std. > high beam wiring back to the relay. Rather than powering the lights, it > powers the relay. High beam dash light is unaffected. You were planning on > replacing the wiring all the way to the headlight bulb plug anyway right? > > Gary > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert Steven Fish" <fish@salzburg.co.at> > To: "Alistair Bell" <albell@UVIC.CA>; <RAlanen@AOL.COM>; > <gstearns@OPTONLINE.NET>; "Matthew Pollard" <poll7356@uidaho.edu> > Cc: "Vanagon Mailing List" <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 8:00 PM > Subject: Re: Re: Relaying Headlights > > > > Revisiting the headlight relay scene... > > > > I am going to attempt the infamous headlight circuit rewire this weekend > on > > my 87 2.1 Vanagon. > > > > Before I go shopping for wire, I wanted to get something straight... > > > > When running your power to the 30 terminals of the relays, where is the > best > > source for juice.. the alternator or the battery plus terminal?? > > > > I just read something which seemed to indicate that the power should come > > off the alternator, because then it does not have to pass through any of > the > > car's internal wiring and will thus not have such a pronounced voltage > drop. > > > > But from what I am reading here, it seems that the battery terminal will > be > > able to deliver the same quality juice as the alternator... is this > correct. > > > > I will save a lot of red wire if I go to the battery. > > > > Thanks for the info! > > > > RSF > > > > PS... in addition, it seems that if you take the WHITE wire, directly from > > the steering column headlight dimmer switch, to be your relay coil, then > you > > will end up without a blue dash LED indicating that your brights are on... > > or am I missing something here? Looks like that WHITE wire runs through a > > fuse and back to the wiring block, to emerge as a white/black wire, on its > > way to the 56a at the high beam lamp. Wouldn't it be better to take this > > wire for the relay coil?? > > > > <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ > > > > Robert S. Fish > > Salzburg, Austria > > 1987 Wolfsburg Vanagon 2.1 GL Weekender > > 1987 Golf Cabriolet > > 1991 Golf > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Alistair Bell" <albell@UVIC.CA> > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 5:37 PM > > Subject: Re: Relaying Headlights > > > > > > Frank, > > > > I am sure you're gonna get a few responses to your battery statement! > > > > > > When the engine is running and the battery charged, battery voltage is > > greater than 12 volts (I read 14.1-14.2 at the battery). The alternator > > output is limited to whatever the voltage reg is set at (13.8-14.4) not 12 > > volts. > > > > If you only read 12 volts across the pos and neg of your battery when the > > engine is running then you have alternator and/or battery problems. > > > > The battery must be charged at a voltage higher than 12, the upper limit > > being a compromise between charge rate and over charge. Gel cell batteries > > have a slightly different charge profile (both equalisation and float). > > > > I get approx 14.0 at the dash voltmeter with no load. The addition of two > 8 > > gauge power lines running up to the front (for aux light and relayed head > > lights) makes a big difference in the measured voltage drop when those > > aforementioned loads are applied. Used to be (with stock wiring) when I > > turned on all the electrical loads the voltmeter would drop below 12V > > (wipers, blower, lights, rear defrogger etc), now with the same loads plus > a > > 250W aux light the voltage bottoms out at 12.5) > > > > Alistair > > > > > > > > on 26/2/02 3:34 AM, you wrote: > > > > > > >> > > > Never gonna get 13 volts up at the head lamps unless you run 10 guage > > > wire to them. Even then I doubt that will work. Battery is 12 volts > > that's > > > it that's all. Yes, the alternator puts out 13.? volts, but it is > > regulated > > > to the battery at 12 volts. There is always gonna be some current drop > in > > > the line which is a factor of the diameter and length of the line. > Using > > the > > > stock wires to the headlamps with the relays bypassing the limiting > switch > > VW > > > put there will get you around 11.5 volts and the lamps. Which is way > > better > > > than the 9.5 volts there in OEM conditions. > > > > > > Cheers > > > > > > Frank Condelli > > > > > > >


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