First, thanks for the e-mails several have sent me. Its great to be part of this community ! The engine does make the right noises when it is cranked. The timing belt was changed about 20 k miles ago and I have every reason to believe its still ok. The car was running rough at times before it died completely. I know that would have been the best time to fix it but junior didn't tell me !! I do have fuel pressure at the fuel distributor so the fuel pump must be running when I crank the car over. The distributor is turning therefore the hall sensor must be sending a signal somewhere, assuming its ok, but I have tried another distributor , therefore another hall sensor. I have fuel at the injectors but I have no sparks !! Not even from the wire going to the centre of the distributor. Somehow, the coil is not being switched on and off. There are no obvious wiring problems. The coil has been swapped out, so has the ignition module. The wires from the hall sensor do not go to the ignition module, instead they go to the knock sensor module. The only wiring diagram that I have at present is the Haynes manual which does not cover models with the CIS-E that this is, along with the knock sensor distributor. The engine is "RD" All the testing info that I have at the moment gives things to check when the Hall sensor is connected directly to the ignition module so I am sort of stuck. I have both distributors at home at the moment, as the car is a long way away. Is there a way I can check the Hall sensor operation without it being in the car ? Also , where should the slotted ring be in relationship to the rotor arm ? The shaft is splined and there is no positively identified position like a keyway to make sure it goes back together right. Thanks again for any help !! Steve Cotsford |
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