Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 10:26:21 -0600
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: lifter's sticking, adjustment procedure
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Here is what I do.
First I always run a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in my engine to loosen
sludge and clean the lifters etc before I start this routine. It only
requires about three cycles of bring the engine up to full temperature
for it to work. Then I change the oil, filter and on my air cooled I
clean the oil pickup screen. Restart the engine and let it get warm. Take
a break and let it cool down then I start the procedure with a big piece
of clean cardboard under the car to catch oil drips.
#1. Remove the valve covers.
#2. Loosen the adjusting nuts about two full turns.
#3. Start the engine for about 1 minute.
#4. Go to the back of the car and slip another piece of cardboard under
there so I don't lay in the oil that dripped.
#5. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC, Remove #1 Plug, I use a flashlight and a
piece of flat steel that comes off windshield wiper blades to get TDC.
(others use a screwdriver or coathanger wire) The steel will not rotate
when the piston is at TDC but it doesn't bind the piston. (depends on
your piston/head clearance)
#6. I rotate my distributor so the notch in the distributor rim is right
in line with the rotor arm.
#7. I adjust the first #1 intake and exhaust valves to one turn after the
rocker arm just touches the valve stem. Or use Bobs way of .060 with a
feeler gauge (you are eleminating pre load by using his method, nothiong
wrong with it).
#8. Since I've got a manual transmission I put the gearbox in 2nd gear
and rock the car until the next cylinder comes up to TDC, I watch the
rotor arm and when it is 90% past the notch and first position I set the
next valves. (leave the spark plugs in, only #1 needs to be removed)
#9. While all this is going on the sealer that sticks my new valve cover
gaskets to the valve covers is setting.
#10. Just follow through on each cylinder until you've got them all set.
#11. Check the general condition of your valve stems (no chips) and your
adjusting screws (few tiny pits OK, but no chips or hard wear signs).
#12. Reinstall your valve covers.
#13. Crank your engine, pay attention to the oil light, if it doesn't
come on immediately stop cranking and then crank again.
#14. Your engine may be noisy for as long as 15 minutes, don't panic.
Just take a gentle trip around the block and it will normally settle in.
#15. I don't bleed the lifters, I've never to my knowledge had air locked
lifters. If the above procedure doesn't quieten your lifters then you
could possibly have the air locked problem. If you do you'll just have to
follow the procedures in the Bentley or get info from Boston Bob about
the bleeding procedure.
#16. I made a tool consisting of a wood dowel with a finish nail in the
end of it so I could bleed the lifters, pushing it down in the relief
valve releases pressure in the lifter but I envisioned it as introducing
air into the lifters and could never see that it did anything. It could
be an option if you decide to try it.
Stan Wilder
1983 Air Cooled Westfalia
On Sun, 31 Mar 2002 10:22:00 EST NBuck4149@aol.com writes:
When you adjust the valves, do you need to run the engine to ensure
the lifters are fully pumped up before making the adjustment?
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