Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:32:20 -0800
Reply-To: David Marshall <vanagon@VOLKSWAGEN.ORG>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Marshall <vanagon@VOLKSWAGEN.ORG>
Subject: Re: Q about the inline 4 VW engine, Oil pressure switch.
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20020328144428.00a8e010@mail.idirect.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Who knows what switch Cambodian Tire put in there - the switch is supposed
to be closed at 1.8BAR and the alarm is supposed to go off if 1.8BAR isn't
achived at 2000RPM - get a real Bosch switch there something like $15.
David Marshall
Fast Forward Automotive Inc.
4356 Quesnel Hixon Road
Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3
http://www.fastforward.ca mailto:sales@fastforward.ca
Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160
- Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions
- Vanagon, Transporter and Iltis Sales and Importation
- European Lighting for most Volkswagen models
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf
Of Stones
Sent: March 28, 2002 11:58 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Q about the inline 4 VW engine, Oil pressure switch.
On the inline 4 gasoline engine (Taken from a 1996 Cabriolet) anybody know
the oil pressure switch well?
While my SO was driving it, the oil light came on, so she pulled into the
Canadian Tire garage parking lot (She swears she was only a block away) and
called me. Anyway, it was leaking oil around the pressure switch (Atop the
pump outlet, right over where the oil filter screws on from beneath), so we
just let the Canadian Tire garage guys put their aftermarket pressure
switch in...
Now, the oil light comes on whenever the engine RPMs stay over 2300 for a
few seconds...
My question is shouldn't the switch be a 2 position normally open, such
that the oil pressure closes the switch before the engine gets to 200 RPM,
and then the lead is grounded, to cause no oil light?
With the engine off, and the wire removed, I test the switch and it is
grounded. (Closed)
When I start the engine up (Cold, 20w40, idling at about 1100 RPM) the
switch opens within a couple of seconds. Forgive me if I'm overlooking the
obvious but this HAS to be a normally closed switch, did the FLAPS guys
give me an incorrect part? They insist that it's the correct switch for the
engine (They really don't like my van much though. it bothers them)...
I guess what I'm looking for is confirmation that the switch should be a
normally open, and that my tests are the correct way to determine that it
isn't... Anyone out there more sure of themself than I?
Thanks in advance.
