Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 12:47:07 EDT
Reply-To: VW85Westy@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Peter Krogh <VW85Westy@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Broken New Engine, What is fair resolution?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Dave,
Actually, the $600 diagnosis was at three different VW only shops, not the
installer. I was trying to do exactly whgat you had outlined below. I am
now at the point where I can't find ANYONE - even with a willingness on my
part to drive several hundred miles - who wants to help diagnose the problem.
I am in Washington DC area, BTW. Willing to go from Richmond to lower NJ to
fix this.
Yes, there have been several tests for CO2 in the coolant, all negative,
except for one "inconclusive". With the exception of Jere's recent post
(water pump), no one can give any explanation for the symptioms EXCEPT head
leak. Has anyone ever confirmed the Jere's theory of Water Pump introducing
air because of bad seal? Anyone had this when the system pressure tests
positive, and there is no coolant loss?
Is there a test for Hydrocarbons that checks the coolant itself, rather than
the gas found in the cooling system?
Thanks for everyone's help.
Peter
In a message dated 4/10/02 12:20:08 PM, voicebox@DNAI.COM writes:
<< >In a message dated 4/10/02 11:06:24 AM, VW85Westy@AOL.COM writes:
>
><< Air enters cooling system
>during highway driving. >>
>
>This is impossible because while driving, the coolant is at a positive gage
>pressure, even with a leak. Have the coolant checked for combustion
>byproducts. If there is any present, then you have a combustion leak of some
>sort. The real problem is getting someone to pay for it. You certainly have
>already made your contribution in that department. One thing which puzzles
>me: did not $600-worth of diagnostics reveal anything of substance?
It would seem not.
I mistrust the installer. If after 10 hours of diagnosis he can't
*confirm* the cause (I think a simple chemical analysis of the
coolant would determine whether or not the exhaust is leaking into
it), I'd not use him for diagnostics.
I suggest getting a qualified technician into the loop:
1. Have him do a diagnosis up front (talk it over with several and
choose one based on their experience and knowledge of the problem).
This shouldn't cost too much.
2. Take the results to your installer and/or rebuilder and insist
that he carry out the indicated repair. If he's not using quality
parts (VW or OEM), maybe that's the problem.
Weren't the heads checked for cracks when they were removed?
Good luck,
Dave
--
Dave Carpenter
Whatever you wish for me, >>
