Date:         Mon, 6 May 2002 12:59:42 -0600
Reply-To:     "Thompson, Michael" <METhompson@GOLDER.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Thompson, Michael" <METhompson@GOLDER.COM>
Subject:      Message for Stan
Content-Type: text/plain

Stan
Thanks.  I have the Bentley Manual.  I think I need to check the spring
seating - sounds like mine have been re-fitted incorrectly by the garage.
I will carefully re-torque the heads as this sure looks like it is where the
oil is coming from.
I presume I need to drop the engine to check the oil cooler for leaks.  I
have dropped a Beetle engine before, on my own, in about 1 hour, and this
sounds easier, as I had to jack the Beetle about 3 feet off the ground to
remove the engine from below the bay.
Thanks again - you have given me the confidence to attack this over the next
couple of weeks and hopefully get out camping before long
Best Wishes
Michael
Ps your email isn't working!


-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Wilder [mailto:wilden1@juno.com]
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 11:54 AM
To: METhompson@GOLDER.COM
Subject: Re: Message for Stan


#1)The springs are in place, ............... They are not seated on the
top edges of the tubes or the tubes would not be moving. The notch in the
rocker arm stands goes down to catch and hold the spring wire gizmo.
The bails on the valve covers should be very tight when in place, you may
need to re-bend them for more tension. When they are on right they drop
out of the way so you can get the valve covers off and I use a hammer
handle to leverage them back up.
#2)Engine seal just pushes away *lateral* from the tin. The gap in the
seal should be over your tranny. Carefull with this seal, new ones are
$119.00.
#3)Do you need to remove the intake system from the heads? ......... Yes
if you're going to get to the head bolts. Lower four bolts are inside the
Valve Covers, remove the rocker arm assembly to get at them. The top
bolts require removal of the engine tin and the injector tubes (install
new 49cent small / lower injector seals while you got this out).
#4) It is possible to have a leak at the cylinder head. Yes cylinder head
leaks are common and it could be leaking there but with your compression
readings I doubt it. In freezing temps very possible.
VW heads use a head gasket, AMC heads do not use a gasket. Be sure you
don't over torque the heads, read the specs 23 Foot pounds and be sure
each has a heavy washer under the nut.
#5) Left Side Seals -------The seals at the oil cooler could be leaking,
the filter mount could be leaking.
#6)You need to get a Hayes Manual from your local FLAPS, you're going to
get very lost without a manual of some sort. Possibly your local library
will have one.
#7) You can get to every seal from the top / bottom except the flywheel
(front main seal).
#8) Oil coolers also sometimes fail and leak. Not Common.
#9) If you pull the engine....... the body will lift enough to clear the
engine but remove the oil dip stick and if you pull the engine and tranny
(my way) be sure to remove the starter. This is about an eight hour turn
around with experience, a floor jack and a helper. Avoid it.

Stan Wilder

On Mon, 6 May 2002 11:10:51 -0600 "Thompson, Michael"
<METhompson@GOLDER.COM> writes:
> Stan
>
> Thanks again. I have checked the pushrod tubes again, and they all
> move
> easily under fairly light pressure (i.e. I can grab them between
> thumb and
> forefinger and slide them out of the ends so they hang on the
> pushrods. I
> thinks I need some Viton seals! The springs are in place, but maybe
> these
> have lost some of their 'spring'. I wil try and get some new ones.
>
> Also I cleaned all the upper engine area at the weekend - lots of
> old oil
> and dust around there. I also removed the fan alternator, etc and
> cleaned in
> the fan housing as much as possible. Fortunately, the rear (fan)
> seal looks
> good (no fresh oil around) and there is no oil dripping from the
> bell
> housing are (i.e. front (clutch) seal looks good). The main leaks
> are from
> the oil cooler area, and both cylinder/head/tube areas, especially
> the right
> (facing forwards). I am going to clean the underside when it stops
> snowing
> in Calgary!!. Is it possible that oil is coming from the cylinder
> head
> gasket? This is where it looks like. Can you check and re-torque the
> heads
> with the engine in? I tried removing the upper tinware at the
> weekend, but
> it was held fast by the engine surround seal. Is there a trick to
> removing
> this? Do you need to remove the intake system from the heads? Is it
> just
> going to be easier to get all the seals I need and then drop the
> engine to
> do it? How high does the rear of the van need to be to clear the
> engine. I
> was thinking of removing the intake system from the engine and
> leaving it
> attached in the van. This way I wouldn't need to disconnect
> everything.
>
> Sorry about all the questions
>
> Thanks again
>
> Michael
>

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