Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:22:08 -0700
Reply-To: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Clutch Master Cylinder Installation Q:'s
In-Reply-To: <001501c1f820$06772cc0$b33245cf@vaio>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Michael,
This is a fairly easy job to do. It could get real messy if you
allow the brake fluid to drain all over the floor board and
carpeting.
To prevent that, what I did first was drain enough fluid from the
reservoir on the brake master cylinder to go below the clutch master
cylinder line level. - I syphoned it out but there are other ways.
You can put a drain hose on the bleeder valve and open it draining
all you can. You can also open the bleeder back on the slave
cylinder and drain the entire system.
At this point pickup the John Muir book and read the part about
getting in the back of the van with your loved one and relax.
Ok with most of the fluid sufficiently drained, loosen the line-out
pipe to the slave cylinder. Place rags underneath and let it drain
off any fluid. Place a container underneath to capture all the fluid
that you can.
Have lots of rags handy under the brake pedal. Don't get any fluid on
any paint it will eat it up. If you do spill use rubbing alcohol to
clean it up quickly. I guess you better not be reading the Muir book
and smoking a dubby while doing this. It might scorch your van.
Ok back to the master cylinder: Ok disconnect the fluid line-out to
the slave cylinder. Note the two copper washers there is one on the
outside and one on the inside of the hose connection.
Loosen the two bolts that hold the master cylinder in place on the
bracket. Now you can pull out the master cylinder and hold it in
your hands. At this time you can wiggle the main fluid hose coming
from the brake reservoir and work it off the unit.
Clean up the area and you are ready to replace with the new one.
Insert the brake fluid hose from the reservoir back on. You may use
some silicone to get it on snug. No clamps required. If it is worned
and cracked you may want to replace it as well.
Check that the plunger pin is well situated in the pedal mechanism
rebolt the clutch master cylinder in position.
rebolt the line out to the slave with one copper washer on each side
of the bolt. You may need to replace those washers.
And now you are ready to add new fluid and bleed the system.
Here is the trick. The slave cylinder is lower than the clutch
master so all you have to do to drain the air out of the line is to
open the bleeder on the slave, add plenty of fluid in the reservoir
and wait.Let Gravity work for you. To quote john muir some more,
relax and warm up with a friend.
Ok ok, you can help it along by pumping the clutch pedal. repeat
until you feel pressure and the slave is moving the throw-out
bearing.
I found out that it took about a week of driving to get the pedal
adjusted automatically with the proper amount of free play so don't
go trying to adjust the plunger or anything give it some time and it
should adjust to the proper freeplay. If you can engage the gears
and change them with little pedal play, that's OK it will adjust in
time.
Another thing that happens about 6 months later or before this is the
partner slave or the master goes out too. So might as well change
both at the same time and save the rest of the afternoon.
Good luck
Joel
89 Syncro Westy MV
Rochester NY.
--- Michael Nichols <msnichols@MINDSPRING.COM> wrote:
> Hello from Atlanta, Ga. I need to install a new clutch M/C in my
> '81 air
> cooled---any tips, words of wisdom, time saving steps from the
> List???
> Thanks!
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael S. Nichols
> 2--'81's
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