Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:46:01 -0700
Reply-To: John Clemens <jbclem@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Clemens <jbclem@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Message for Stan- Dropping Aircooled Engine
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
Michael,
You didn't say if your engine runs well, but if it does and the compression
reading is what you say, then I wouldn't worry about anything else, unless
you are burning oil(and can see it coming out the tailpipe).
Having an oil leak makes it hard to decide how important any oil burning it,
but how many miles do you go before you have to add a quart of oil?
To check the oil leak, have you taken a rag on the end of a screwdriver and
reached up above the pushrod tubes and wiped everything(as much as possible)
clean so you can really spot where the leak is coming from. You have to
clean/dry the spaces above the pushrod tubes to determine if the leak is
coming from the cylinder base rather than from the more likely pushrod tube
seal(don't mean to repeat the obvious, but it does help to dry that area if
you haven't already).
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thompson, Michael" <METhompson@GOLDER.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:13 PM
Subject: Message for Stan- Dropping Aircooled Engine
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thompson, Michael
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:56 PM
> To: 'Stan Wilder'
> Subject: RE: Dropping Aircooled Engine
>
> Thanks again Stan.
> Is it necessary to remove rear-most tinware first, or does lowering the
rear
> of the engine 5" using said bolts allow engine to be pulled back with all
> tinware in place? Any top tips for installing to make life easier?
>
> By the way, I have just had a compression test, leak-down test and oil
> pressure test carried out at a VW specialist. Results are confusing, as
> follows:
> Compression (psi)
> #1 120
> #2 125
> #3 120
> #4 130
> Leak-down
> #1 70%
> #2 44%
> #3 64%
> #4 74%
> Oil pressure (psi)
> 22 at hot idle
>
> The results for the leak-down are what PASSES the cylinder (i.e. the
> opposite of the compression test). The garage says that it is fine up to
> about 80-85% passing before worrying too much. The oil pressure looks
fine.
>
>
> The VW 'specialist' cannot explain the leak-down results vs the
compression.
> They admit that there is a lot of blow-by for such compression results.
> They have suggested removing engine, replacing all oil seals/gaskets and
> putting new rings in and de-glazing the cylinders. They think it is
> unlikely that new pistons/cylinders will be needed with these results.
> I am pretty confused and am getting differing advice here. I have
> re-checked the oil leak and am pretty sure it is coming mostly from the
> cylinder head/cylinder base area. It just seems to drip onto the push-rod
> tubes from above on both sides, although the right side is worst. Could
> serious over-revving of the engine cause the gaskets here to blow (I
recall
> the previous owner shifting into 1st from 4th and having to have the
clutch
> replaced as a result.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stan Wilder [mailto:wilden1@juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:15 PM
> To: METhompson@GOLDER.COM
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Dropping Aircooled Engine
>
> #1) Get two bolts 5/16 x about 6" all threaded., remove the four mustache
> crossbar bolts and use one of these on each side to drop the rear of your
> engine 5". Makes it a lot easier to get to other hardware.
> #2) Remove Alternator, Oil Dip Stick, and all electrical that will tie
> the engine to the chasis.
> #3) Loosen heater flapper valves and push them out of the way.
> #4) Put a jack under the engine, drop the starter and remove the other
> three engine/tranny bolts (three bolts in flex plate also if you got an
> auto)
> #5) separate the engine and tranny and let the tranny just hang.
> #6) Lower the floor jack and just push the engine off onto the ground.
> (cardboard pad helps) a skate board is even better.
> #7) Use the jack to jack under one of the rear wheels and drag the engine
> out from under the van.
> For me that is a 30 minute job after doing it ten times.
> First time ......... be careful that all fuel lines, electrical throttle
> cable ect are not hanging up.
>
> Stan Wilder
> 83 Air Cooled Westfalia
>
>
> On Mon, 13 May 2002 11:03:50 -0600 "Thompson, Michael"
> <METhompson@GOLDER.COM> writes:
> > Dear List
> > I am planning on dropping the engine out of my 81' Westy and was
> > wondering
> > of the best equipment to use. Trolley jack, engine hoist (from
> > above,
> > inside rear hatch) or other? Any advice appreciated. I have
> > previously
> > dropped a '71 Beetle engine using a trolley jack - the Type IV in
> > the
> > vanagon looks easier as it is not as tall with the fan housing,
> > just
> > heavier.
> > Best wishes
> > Michael
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dana Morphew [mailto:kadm@PUGETSOUND.NET]
> > Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:32 AM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: 2.0 l. Injectors, Rack and FPR
> >
> > For those of you that want to go with the I4 injectors, rack and
> > FPR
> > with their TICCO conversion:
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1827985499
> >
> > -Dana-
> >
>
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