In a message dated 5/13/02 9:27:28 AM, jmorris1@CAROLINA.RR.COM writes: << I'm assuming an EZ-out is the logical choice, no? >> John, Not for me. From your description, it seems that you have some remnants of the studs standing proud of the case. There are sockets made for removing broken studs. One type has internal teeth which, when the socket is driven on, bite into the stud. These sockets are dimensioned for a particular size stud. Another type of stud removal socket covers a continuous range of stud sizes by way of an eccentric, toothed pawl which grips the stud. To your advantage, the tension has already been relieved from the fastener, although not in way you wanted it to be. In an ideal world, you should be able to wring out the studs by hand. But, they are frozen. You need to add a lot of penetrant and a little heat. If you cannot readily find the right stud removal socket, you could alternately file diametrically opposed (and parallel !!) flats on the studs and use a wrench to turn the studs. Of course, do not even attempt this until the penetrant and heat have performed their magic. Oh, one more way to your end. If you can file a decent square on the end of the stud, you might want to try a hand driven impact driver. Rich |
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